Santos Aguilera’s bantam eatery inside a house is as special as they come. There is no signage. There are no menus. There is a WWII Navy memorial, seating, an ornate wood bar, and Santos: the 88-year-old owner who offers enchiladas, chili, chicken, and a couple of out-of-this-world breakfast tacos. But Santos is slowing down and there is no indication his son will take over for him. In other words, go now.
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José R. Ralat is the writer behind The Taco Trail, curator of the Taco Libre taco and music festival, and the food editor at Cowboys & Indians magazine.