Food & Drink

Denver’s 10 Most Underappreciated Restaurants

Ruth Tobias Published On 03/10/2015 Published On 03/10/2015
Ruth Tobias/Thrillist

In a city that sees hundreds of restaurant openings a year, all the noise about newcomers can drown out kudos (mmm... Kudos) where they’re consistently due -- especially when it comes to places that may be a little older, a little idiosyncratic and off-trend, or simply a little out of the way. Here are 10 examples you need to put -- or put back -- on your Denver-dining short list.

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Angelo’s Taverna

Alamo Placita
It’s an old-school red-sauce parlor. With a killer oyster bar (try the char-grilled platters and shooters). And chewy-crusted, lavishly topped pizzas named, for no apparent reason, after old Red Hot Chili Peppers tunes. And a sweet, tree-shaded back patio. Angelo’s, in short, is a neighborhood joint par excellence: full of quirks, secrets, and loyal customers wondering when the rest of us will realize what we’ve been missing. 

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Axios Estiatorio

Berkeley
If all you know about Greek food could fit in a pita, you’re in for a sexy, sexy surprise. It’s sun-drenched, sea-breezy stuff -- rich with lamb and lemons, olives and almonds, eggplant and yogurt, phyllo and feta. And this grown-ups’ go-to not only presents it with gusto, but also pairs it with one of the the city’s coolest wine lists, devoted almost entirely to Greece’s distinctive native grapes. 

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Beatrice & Woodsley

Baker
We don’t need to tell you beauty can be a curse, right? This walk-in fairy tale, built to evoke a mountain cabin among aspens, has been winning design awards from the get-go; in fact, it’s so mesmerizingly atmospheric that the food itself can get overlooked. That’s too bad, because at its best, what comes out of the kitchen is highly original, a mix of the heritage and the cutting-edge -- think goat burgers on bourbon-mash buns with pear butter, or yak-mincemeat pie with sweet potato-toffee ice cream. Actually, don’t think too much: Beatrice & Woodsley is pretty much a date-night no-brainer, so just experiment and experience.

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Bittersweet

Washington Park West
If you’re a fan of Tables, or Fuel, or The Plimoth, or any other of Denver’s neighborhood sleeper-hits, then you’d best quit whizzing right past Olav Peterson’s garden-bordered sanctuary of seasonal cuisine on, okay, an admittedly ugly stretch of Alameda. The chef-owner’s ingredients are pristine, his technique precise, his presentation as suave as the gray-toned dining rooms, where the mood is refined but relaxed. In a setting like that, you’d expect a boutique wine list and clever cocktails -- but wait’ll you see the super-cool beer selection, emphasizing uncommon European imports. Name notwithstanding, it’s all pretty sweet.

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Interstate Kitchen & Bar

Santa Fe Art District
For all its studios and galleries, Santa Fe’s surprisingly sleepy. So Interstate doesn’t always get the major traffic it would if it were just a few blocks away. What it does see is a steady stream of regulars who’ve found a second home in its retro roadside-themed dining room; a bar that was ahead of the bourbon-curve on day one; and a kitchen that puts the "style" in homestyle cooking -- we’re talking salmon pot pie, batter-fried chicken livers with hot sauce, and a ridiculous pastrami on rye-and-cornbread stuffing in horseradish cream. So maybe remember to follow their lead the next time you’re bitching about the bottleneck Baker has become.

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Lo Stella

Golden Triangle
In case you didn’t get the message when we included Lo Stella in our list of Denver’s best fall openings, we’re gonna make it forte e chiaro (that’s "loud and clear"): this here is the real regional Italian deal. The space it occupies may be cursed, but the cooking is blessed, so cross fingers that it breaks the locational jinx on the sheer strength of its expertly baked breads, perfectly textured pastas, and other effortless classics from the owner’s native Liguria and beyond. Then uncross fingers, because it’s hard to twirl noodles on your fork that way.

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Lower48 Kitchen

Ballpark
We don’t know how else to put it: right here in one room, some of the fiercest talents around are turning out some of the most innovative and memorable small plates -- paired with one of the most thoughtful wine lists and delivered by some of the smoothest, most professional servers -- that this city has ever seen. We’re not saying that anyone who disagrees is a meat-and-potatoes oaf whose mother never taught them how to dine instead of eat; we’re just saying they’re welcome to go get fries with that elsewhere. Sorry not sorry -- more brisket fritters, oxtail crêpes, and deviled-egg tarts for the rest of us. 

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Machete Tequila + Tacos

Multiple locations
Beer-battered shark on hibiscus tortillas. Grilled halibut in pineapple butter on squid-ink tortillas. Huitlacoche (aka "corn smut") on poblano tortillas. Sardine guacamole, shishito queso fundido, and scallop aguachile. These are all real and tremendous things that you can and should wash down with copious amounts of craft tequila at either branch of Machete. And if anyone tries to tell you they aren’t "authentic," you tell them that Mexican cuisine is as diverse and progressive as any in the world, and implying otherwise is kinda condescending. Then drop the micrófono.

Ruth Tobias/Thrillist

Trillium

Ballpark
What the hell is a minimalist-chic, modern Scandinavian restaurant doing on Budweiser-and-bratwurst turf? Being drop-dead awesome, that’s what. Drawing on his Finnish heritage and Michigan upbringing alike, chef-owner Ryan Leinonen pickles, preserves, cures, and smokes his way to some of the most exciting menus in town, whether featuring foie gras with rieska, cloudberry jam, and foraged mushrooms or grilled New York strip with lingonberry-mustard demi-glace and walnut-poppy seed butter. If you need some liquid courage before ordering anything that involves gløgg ice or juniper jus, though, a couple shots of house-infused aquavit are guaranteed to do the trick. 

Ruth Tobias/Thrillist

YaYa’s Euro Bistro

Greenwood Village
Looking for something new and edgy in the DTC? Well, stop it. Your time’s way better spent soaking up the classy atmosphere of this long-standing link in a small regional chain, which looks like an old Italian villa crashed into a gleaming golf-course clubhouse, right down to the picturesque, pond-facing terrace. It’s an impression the skillfully prepared modern Mediterranean cuisine only heightens, enhanced by a business-class wine list and a beloved Sunday brunch buffet. So if you come to find yourself craving Yaya’s brand of polished warmth and ease over the chaos erupting at the latest hot spot, congratulations -- you’re officially your own man.

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1. Angelo's Taverna 620 E 6th Ave, Denver, CO 80218

Angelo's Taverna is an old-school red-sauce parlor with a killer oyster bar (try the char-grilled platters and shooters) and chewy-crusted, lavishly topped pizzas. This neighborhood spot has a super-cozy, red bricked and stained glass interior, with a back patio shaded by trees. The pie with shaved ribeye, peppers, and onions is decadent, and the leftovers make for a great snack if you can't finish it all in one sitting.

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2. Axios Estiatorio 3901 Tennyson St, Denver, CO 80212

If all you know about Greek food could fit in a pita, you’re in for a sexy, sexy surprise. Axios Estiatorio has all sun-drenched, sea-breezy stuff -- rich with lamb and lemons, olives and almonds, eggplant and yogurt, phyllo and feta. And this grown-ups’ go-to not only presents it with gusto, but also pairs it with one of the the city’s coolest wine lists, devoted almost entirely to Greece’s distinctive native grapes.

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3. Beatrice & Woodsley 38 S Broadway, Denver, CO 80209 (South Broadway)

Beatrice & Woodsley is primed for date night with a romantic ambience and shareable bites like ricotta gnocchi and sour, curry-poached octopus. Not all entrees here are dainty though -- there are plenty of meat-centric dishes like braised goat with homemade barbecue sauce and pork chop with potatoes, kale, and escargot. The seating situation, consisting of narrow tabletops and cozy booths in the main dining room, encourages intimate conversation, so you may want to rethink taking a colleague here for dinner.

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4. bittersweet 500 E Alameda Ave, Denver, CO 80209 (Wash Park)

This artisanal eatery serves up hearty dishes, including short rib with a rutabaga puree, monkfish in a lemon gastrique, and confit Maple Leaf Duck, aka what Toronto hockey players do when confronted by disgruntled fans.

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5. Interstate Kitchen & Bar 901 W 10th Ave, Denver, CO 80204 (Lincoln Park)

Santa Fe's homebase for "comfort food" and "comfort hooch" has made our Favorite Five Burgers list with a mean, no-frills ground chucker that's stuffed between a "buttery, fluffy" brioche bun, can be adorned with your choice of applewood-smoked bacon/ fried egg/ avocado/ grilled 'shrooms/ bleu cheese, and uses meat from Mile High's Anderson Family Steak -- clearly not where Louie was raised, as these cows were allowed to grow well past maturity.

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6. Lo Stella Ristorante 1135 Bannock St, Denver, CO 80204 (Golden Triangle)

Don’t go to this Italian spot asking for fettuccine alfredo or spaghetti & meatballs. First of all, the answer’s no, and second, even if it were yes, you’d be doing yourself a grave disservice not to sample the Ligurian specialties of owner Alessandro Polo (who hails from Portofino, where his family has been in the restaurant business for generations). We’re talking exquisite focaccia al formaggio, luscious trenette al pesto or pansoti in salsa di noci (ravioli in walnut sauce), and all the sparkling seafood you’d expect from a coastal region.

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7. Lower48 Kitchen 2020 Lawrence St Unit A, Denver, CO 80205 (Northwest)

At Lower48, two Frasca alums dish up a menu that changes daily, with cuisine inspired by regional ingredients and culinary traditions from all over America.

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8. Trillium 2134 Larimer St, Denver, CO 80205 (Five Points)

Trillium is an American restaurant with serious culinary Scandinavian roots housed in the Five Points neighborhood. Fancying a layout that favors a relaxing, comforting atmosphere, a menu featuring interesting combinations of seafood and meat (sometimes on the same plate), and seasonal brews, you may find yourself staying a while.

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9. YaYa’s Euro Bistro 8310 E Belleview Ave, Denver, CO 80111

This long-standing link in a regional chain looks like an old Italian villa crashed into a gleaming golf-course clubhouse, right down to the picturesque, pond-facing terrace. It’s an impression the skillfully prepared modern Mediterranean cuisine only heightens, enhanced by a business-class wine list and a beloved Sunday brunch buffet.

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