I'll just go ahead and say it: the whiter the people, the blander the food. Nowhere is that adage more apparent than in Denver. And although we have our merits -- you can't throw a stone without hitting a brewery -- we've definitely established a reputation as a town that lacks ethnic (and therefore culinary) diversity.
It’s true that, with the exception of our beloved green chile, the dining scene here was pretty much built on meat and potatoes. But that’s been changing for some time now. My question is, by how much? Enough to prove this city finally has an international-food scene worth exploring? I decided to find out, and my mission was clear: I’d set out to find spiciest dishes around town.
Here’s to brass balls, nerves of steel, and an iron stomach...
The boring and the neutral
There were some places I didn’t even bother to look -- in most Latin American restaurants, for instance. That may sound crazy considering South America’s the birthplace of the Capsicum genus (to use the scientific name for chile peppers), but the fact of the matter is they tend to play a supporting role in the continent’s food, appearing mainly as accents in salsas and other condiments. Peruvian cuisine’s the only exception, and a mild one at that. And the same goes for Central America. Don’t believe me? Here’s a regular lunch special at Los Parceros Restaurante, a Colombian kitchen on East Colfax.
It’s no knock on Denver or its (admittedly small) cadre of Salvadoran, Venezuelan, Brazilian, and Argentine cooks to dismiss them out of hand -- it’s just the nature of their tradition. The dishes just aren't that spicy.
In fact, I didn’t even sweat too much, literally or figuratively, over Mexican food. Don’t get me wrong: the array of chiles and their uses across Mexico are staggering. But they’re more likely to contribute complexity and piquant contrast than downright hellfire. Think about it: how many of your favorite Mexican dishes are spicy without the addition of salsa? Just in case, I tested a few dishes known for their destructive potential along the way, including El Valle’s birria de chivo -- or goat stew -- and the ceviche-esque aguachile at Torres Mexican Food. Que rico? Sí. Killer? No.
But other cuisines that I counted on to slice through me with spice didn’t even come close. Take my foray into what little Caribbean food we’ve got.
Considering the West Indies grow some of the world’s most incendiary peppers, including the Trinidad scorpion and the Scotch bonnet, I harbored high hopes for bursting into flames over the island fare. But Jamaican Grill’s curry goat, while delicious and rich, gave off little more heat than pot roast in gravy. And if the chicken I had at Caribbean Bakery and Catering was jerk, it was the most laid-back, pleasant jerk imaginable, causing little more than a tingling sensation on my lips and tongue that just sort of hung around like a guest that was teetering on overstaying its welcome.
So I moved on to the kitchens specializing in China's most famously fiery regional cuisine, Sichuan. My first stop was China Jade in Aurora, where in the past I’d survived the electric shocks of its dry-fried green beans and ma po tofu. But the preserved pepper fish that sounded so promising petered out on me. So did the boiled fish slices I had to order from Golden’s New Peach Garden a day in advance. When traditionally prepared with a pile of dried chiles, the dish is as notoriously brutal as its name is innocuous, so by the time the owners delivered it with worried expressions and strict serving instructions, I thought surely it would have me in tears within a few bites. It didn't.
While aromatic and filled with numbing Sichuan peppercorns and herbs, the broth was no more than zesty. At Yum Yum Spice, a purveyor of Sichuan dry hot pot near DU, I hardly broke a sweat wolfing down the contents of a sizzling wok loaded with lamb, potatoes, sliced lotus root, bean sprouts, and other veggies, plus more peppercorns but precious few chiles.
That’s not to say Denver’s regional Chinese-food game sucks. In fact, it keeps improving. But you can’t blame Sino-American cooks for their reluctance -- after decades of being practically forced to serve nothing but pupu platters and beef with broccoli while enduring jokes about dog meat -- to cook for Anglos the way they cook for themselves.
Despite my wearisome disappointment, I wasn’t ready to wave my #DenverSoWhite flag just yet.
After all, there's one thing that I knew Denver’s primarily white population stats don’t show: our surprising range of African cuisines. I could take you for Sudanese fatta fool, Nigerian chin chin, South African biltong, Moroccan b’stilla, and Somalian spaghetti with a goddamn banana on the side all in one day. Want more? I'll show you the brand-new AfrikMall with a fledgling food court that includes Ivorian and Congolese vendors and direct you (again) to the Ghanian-run African Grill & Bar where a blistering condiment called shito is requisite on a number of dishes. And I can point you straight towards an Ethiopian community whose cooks don’t skimp on berbere and mitmita -- a red-pepper-based spice mixture essential to their platters.
And because that mixture is pretty standard from restaurant to restaurant, I won't lie about what invariably brought me to Axum: the full bar. Just a little liquid courage helped me handle the red-blooded attack of kitfo -- think beef tartare-meets-sloppy joe mix -- as it flying scissor kicked the back of my throat like Kurt Sloane seeking vengeance for his murdered brother. The lamb stew called awaze tibs did the trick too, its warmth building as slowly as the fire under the proverbial boiling frog, which in this scenario happened to be my mouth.
However, the effect wore off as quickly as it took. But at least I was finally getting fired up after a little reassurance that not everyone in this town’s so quick to dumb (and numb) it down.
Encouraged, I made my way to Aurora’s Koreatown. Granted, Koreans couldn’t dumb down their food if they tried -- it’s nothing if not fundamentally pungent. Omit the garlic, the fish sauce, the fermented soybeans, the vinegar, and so on (never mind the chiles), and there’s little left but beef and cabbage, at which point you're probably better off heading to the nearest Irish pub. So now that we’ve established that it’s hard to go wrong at a Korean restaurant, the question is: how far you want to go right? Up for clearing your sinuses? Besides Dae Gee’s tofu with kimchi and the ddeokbokki at Funny Plus, you might try golbaengi at Aurora’s Seoul Korean BBQ and Sushi: the cold dish of sliced snails in a gochujang-based sauce reminded me of shrimp cocktail... if shrimp cocktail were chewy and also spicy enough to make me sweat from pores I didn’t know I had. Now we're getting somewhere.
The scorchingly insane
If you're up for totally annihilating your sinuses, a couple of doors down from Seoul, there’s a little place called Yong Gung that makes two versions of the seafood soup known as jjam bong. You want the one called “dynamite jjam bong.”
If it looks like a shellfish bloodbath, that’s no coincidence. Halfway through my own bowl, I’d been knocked so senseless by its viciousness that I was broth-spattered, gasping for what felt like my last breath, and literally bloodied, having punctured my thumb on a crab claw in the chaos. But I was also elated by the smoky, salty, umami punishment, softened just enough by plump, sweet shellfish and slurpable noodles -- and ready for more. Particularly, Indian food.
From tandoori kebabs to saag paneer, what most of us stateside grew up thinking was Indian food actually represents only a slice of the subcontinental pie, primarily to the north and west. It’s the increasingly available food of the south, however, that will melt your face off like Toht’s in Raiders. Take the Andhra Pradesh-style goat pepper fry I tried at Paradise Biryani Pointe in Greenwood Village. The deep, dark, tender, bone-in chunks of goat meat came coated in a gravy that tasted as fierce as it looked, reminiscent of cumin, cinnamon, turmeric and enough pepper -- red and black -- to seep immediately through my tongue and keep on going all the way down my gut, where it clawed me to shreds for a few hours. What joyful abuse it was.
That said, it had nothing on phall.
Like chicken tikka masala, phall’s a British-Indian invention. Unlike chicken tikka masala, it will blow the roof off your mouth. On the menu at India Tavern in the DTC, it’s listed with a warning that you have to verbally agree not to sue for damages before they’ll serve it to you. As it turns out, I wasn’t forced to voice a waiver; I was, however, forced to voice agony while basically committing arson to my insides with every incinerating bite. Forget flavor; the focal point here was the endorphin rush it provided -- the feeling that I couldn’t stop eating it, because when the adrenaline slowed, the horror of my self-inflicted crime would fully sink in. Which is delicious in itself.
The same goes for ordering “Thai hot.” US Thai in Edgewater has a long reputation for obliging the request, but my server admitted when I asked that the concept is somewhat gimmicky. In Thailand, balance among contrasting flavors -- spicy, sweet, sour, bitter -- generally trumps heat for heat’s sake. She also suggested, with a disconcertingly nervous laugh, that I stick with plain old “hot.” But I was in it to win it, so Thai hot green curry it was.
Oh shit. What had I done? Seeds swarmed that bowl like gnats. I put a scant tablespoonful on a huge scoop of rice and took my first bite; the scorching sensation spread instantaneously like a wildfire through a forest stricken by drought. After another few bites, I was piling up napkins to mop my forehead and blow my nose. A few more and my gut started flinching from the blows, clenching in a promise to win round two of this battle. True, through it all, I could still detect the smoky bittersweetness coating the chunks of tofu, eggplant, green beans, and other veggies; it didn’t entirely lack for nuance. I just couldn’t appreciate it -- I was too busy appreciating how miserable I was.
And that, friends, goes to show this town's not just white bread, meat, and potatoes. We've got a whole world of cooks out there -- all you have to do is accept their challenge to your tastebuds. (Just be prepared to destroy a few in the process.)
So what'd I miss? Sound off in the comments section with your recommendations (as though I even have to ask).
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Ruth Tobias has taken more Altoids and Tums in the past few weeks than you ever have in your life. Find out where she's saying FU to good breath and digestion now @Denveater.
1. Los Parceros Restaurante5922 E Colfax Ave, Denver
2. El Valle2925 W 38th Ave, Denver
3. Torres Mexican Food1595 S Federal Blvd, Denver
4. Jamaican Grill708 W. 8th Ave, Denver
5. Caribbean Bakery2934 E Colfax Ave, Denver
6. China Jade12101 E Iliff Ave, Aurora
7. New Peach Garden1111 Washington Ave, Golden
8. Yum Yum Spice2039 S University Blvd, Denver
9. AfrikMall10180 E Colfax Ave, Aurora
10. African Grill & Bar18601 Green Valley Ranch Blvd #100, Denver
11. Axum5501 E Colfax Ave, Denver
12. Dae Gee827 Colorado Blvd, Denver
13. Funny Plus2779 S Parker Rd, Aurora
14. Seoul Korean BBQ & Sushi2080 S Havana St, Aurora
15. Yong Gung Dragon Place2040 S Havana St, Aurora
16. Paradise Biryani Pointe Denver9678 E Arapahoe Rd, Englewood
17. India Tavern5062 S Syracuse St, Denver
18. US Thai Cafe5228 W 25th Ave, Edgewater
Knick knacks and trinkets adorn the bright yellow walls of this traditional Colombian hole in the wall on East Colfax. A pint sized spot made up of only four booths, Los Parceros Restaurante offers authentic fare in a friendly atmosphere. If you want to escape the dreary Denver winter and step into the sunshine of Bogota for a meal, this is the place.
El Valle's a Mexican eatery in Sunnyside that serves up fresh, traditional fare on the cheap. Check out their lunch specials: a combo meal with your choice of any two items (choose from tacos, burritos, chimichangas, nachos, fajitas, and more) will only run you $7 a pop, and you get free tortilla chips included. How's that for a happy meal?
This quaint Mexican joint operates out of a ranch style home in Denver's Southwest neighborhood. Torres offers 'meat 'n potatoes' Mexican grub: you know, basically tacos, carnitas, mole, taquitos....all the basic dishes you know and love. Denver proud, this spot puts green chiles on most dishes.
This colorful little cafe-slash-Bob Marley shrine has some of Denver's best fried chicken. The friendly owners call their concoction "Jamaican barbie fried chicken," presumably alluding to the island’s style of barbecue rather than the Urban Dictionary definition of "Jamaican barbie," and certainly the copious topping will remind you of barbecue sauce: sweetish and slightly spicy. As for the breading beneath, it doesn’t get soggy because it’s thin as lacquer, glossy and crackling over tender meat that slips off the bone with satisfying ease.
Get your jerk chicken fix at this low-key neighborhood spot off East Colfax. Serving up plantains, rice & beans, and roti all day long, Caribbean Bakery and Catering's a solid spot when you want a diversion from your typical lunch fare.
This strip mall spot's no frills exterior belies its truly tasty and authentic Sichuan food offerings. Do yourself a favor and order off the authentic Sichuan menu and leave your expectations for Americanized Chinese grub at the door; here, dishes are hot, spicy, and flavorful, not bland or boring.
This authentic, family-style spot in Golden serves up tasty Chinese fare on the cheap. Always fresh and flavorful, you'll be pleasantly surprised by the level of spice and savoryness in these dishes. We love the Chinese hamburgers (Rou Jia Mo), which are basically delicious seasoned ground beef patties between two scallion pancakes: yum.
Don't let the strip mall digs fool you: Yum Yum Spice's the real deal. Authentic Sichuan fare like hot pot, drunken noodles, and skewers rule the menu here, and like this venue's name suggests, everything is not only yummy, but also quite spicy.
AfrikMall is an African community retreat, educational center, and cultural hub in Aurora. The spot hosts regular events and workshops and is the home of local shops and cafes benefitting the African community in Denver.
This traditional African restaurant offers up delicious native food from Ghana. Be sure to try the fried chicken; cooked in soybean oil, it boasts a light, almost flaky exterior to contrast the luscious dark meat within -- the fact that it comes on the same plate with such fantastic stuff as black-eyed pea loaf and vegetable-fried rice makes you look good just for being smart enough to order it. Especially if you ask for a side of the smoky, cough-inducingly spicy condiment called shito, too.
Axum's an Ethiopian spot in Park Hill that serves up authentic fare in a homey, friendly setting. Offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner, come here for spicy vegetarian dishes like kategna, injera, fata, and foul.
This Korean BBQ joint rocks just as hard as its Westminster sibling (harder, in fact, because it’s got a full bar). Marinated meat’s only half the story anyway — the rest is a sizzling, bubbling, thrilling saga starring textbook zucchini pancakes, bibimbap, sinus-clearing stews, and the best dubu kimchi in town, bar none.
Funny Plus means serious business poultry-wise. Stick with the plain chicken, so you can add chili sauce as you go. Oh, and order the "rice cake simmered in chili sauce," too.
Seoul Korean BBQ and Sushi's a totally tasty spot with locations in Aurora and Northglenn. This outpost in Aurora features their famous banchan service, where BBQ diners receive complimentary small plates before the meal that illustrate the Korean dining experience. After banchan, pick any meat of your choosing and grill away!
Yong Gung's a small, darkly lit Korean place in Aurora that serves plates upon plates of authentic Seoul fare. A solid choice for dinner, stop by and order one of their combo meals: you get pan fried noodles, spicy soup, and deep fried pork, pork cutlet, or a selection of appetizers for less than $20.
Paradise Biryani Pointe's a great Indian spot in Englewood offering plenty of affordable lunch and dinner specials. For lunch, you can get an appetizer, naan, biryani, curry, and a dessert for a cool $10. The super extensive menu features a wide variety of apps, vegetarian friendly entrees, rice dishes, meats and seafood.
This low-key, relaxed resto in Denver serves savory and authentic Indian fare. Affordable and fresh, stop by for India Tavern's lunch buffet and go all you can eat on a wide selection of entrees and appetizers for only $8.95. Dinner service is more formal; the warm and friendly service here will make you feel right at home.
This chill Thai spot in Edgewater features all the basic dishes you know and love (tom ka, pad thai, panang curry, and more) and serves 'em up authentic Thai style, which is to say, hot and spicy. These bright and colorful dishes won't disappoint Thai food aficionados. Locals say that eating here is like taking a mini trip to Thailand.