3000 bottles of wine on the wall

Designed by the guy who did Nobu, this UWS joint's comfortably ritzed-out with a walnut-topped bar, slate floors, and a 3,000-bottle wall of wine. Though the menu's modern American (braised veal shank, dry-aged black angus sirloin), preparation's French, and presentation's Japanese -- pan-Earth eats that 81 claims are "seasonal", making them the culinary equivalent of "It's happy hour somewhere".