Laid up in the Cut...a sweet new resto

Book binderies are the most exciting places in the world, except, of course, for the joints where they make the dust jackets. Taking them from meh to totally DTF, The Book Bindery.

Located in a Fremont Cut-adjacent space that used to house (yep) a book bindery, this spacious 40-seater boasts slick contemporary touches (a glowing metal light fixture that runs the length of the dining room, an exposed wood ceiling), a massive marble-topped bar, and windows revealing barrels of wine produced next door; modern-American grub's done by a chef whose previous restos have racked up Michelin stars, suggesting they all had pretty Goodyears. The constantly changing, seasonally-inspired menu includes mains like the crispy belly/roasted chop Duo of Pork w/ white bean puree & maple-Bourbon jus; Grilled Sturgeon w/ chanterelles & black pepper gnocchi; and a Mishima Ranch Beef Cap w/ Bordelaise vinaigrette & crushed fingerlings, who should've known they never had a chance when asking firm and shapely Désirée to prom. Smaller plates range from an avocado/breakfast radish Hamachi Tartare, to Marinated Scallops w/ celeriac remoulade & black truffle, to a summer peaches/ginger snap Terrine of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, but not the same Terrine of Hudson Valley who made out with Désirée right in front of the fingerlings. OMG.

Drinkwise, there's a mostly-made-by-BB's-owner list of wines, and, for after, desserts (Beignets w/ Concord grape & chantilly, Red Velvet Cake w/ cream cheese ice cream), and a cheese trio that includes a goat from Cyprus Grove called Bermuda Triangle, which would be the most exciting place in the world, if not for those damn awesome book binderies.