Artists should install themselves wherever their virtues are best appreciated -- many early American jazz players were better received in Europe, and if Chris Moyles hadn't moved to TV, we would've never found out what a wonderful talent the man had for radio. Now, a culinary artist is moving to where you can better appreciate him: North Road, just soft-opened. Moving over from Fig, Road is an opportunity for its vaunted chef/owner to move from Danish-bistro into more fine-dining fare, an elevation abetted by the white-walled, classy-minimalist room's Scandinavian wooden furniture, low-slung bulbs, aged brass fittings, and private chef's table carved from a single piece of 500-year-old oak, which despite being immobile can run rings around the brass fittings. Viking starters include ox cheeks w/ Jerusalem 'chokes, pear & endive, cured native lobster w/ buttermilk, horseradish, coastal herbs & vinaigrette, and glazed veal sweetbreads w/ onions, pickled green elderberries, and milk skin, the quest for which had Cleopatra constantly tapping ass. Moving on up, there're various preparations of mutton loin with wild cabbage & broth, Dorset Bril w/ stewed salsify, nettles & herb oil, and smoked bone marrow w/ burnt-hay-rolled Norfolk deer stalked by the chef himself (they'll switch to reindeer as soon as it comes into season -- expect them to exploit Blitzen's impaired hoof-eye coordination). There's also a 5-course tasting menu including the likes of light-smoked Scottish diver scallops w/ apple, bitter cress & hazelnut, and the "flavours of woodland", consisting of walnuts, chestnuts, wild herbs, and actual birch tree bark -- a spartan diet one should consider before deciding it's better to be seen than heard.