Food & Drink

These are Houston's 12 Essential Restaurants

Published On 05/05/2014 Published On 05/05/2014

In the past few years, Houston has gone from "that other city in Texas" to a nationally recognized culinary destination. And, like Kenny Smith in the original NBA Jam, it's continually heating up. But before getting TOO fixated on all things shiny and brand new, let's pay some respect to the places that helped set Houston's culinary scene on fire in the first place. From humble greasy spoons to game-changing global spots, these are the dozen defining Houston restaurants.

Karen Man

Oxheart

Downtown/Warehouse District
Since opening just two years ago, this spirited 31-seater in the Warehouse District has been challenging meat-centric palates one MoMA-worthy plate at a time. There’s meat too, of course – think grass-fed beef sausage with pickled beets in dried offal sauce – but the four- and seven-course tasting menus focus heavily on brilliantly prepared vegetables. And shockingly, no one seems to mind one bit.

Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen

Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen

Midtown
Monster Gulf Coast oysters are the name of the game at this old-fashioned Creole and Cajun haunt. So are killer seafood gumbos, platters of steamed or fried clams, shrimp, and crab, and NOLA favorites like crawfish etouffee and catfish po’ boys. These guys always bring that Third Coast soul, which becomes especially evident during the Sunday jazz and blues brunch.

Julie Soefer Photography

The Hay Merchant / Underbelly 

Montrose
When adjoining sister restaurants The Hay Merchant and Underbelly opened up shop near Montrose and Westheimer in 2012, we saw a glimpse into the now-thriving block’s future. Craft brewpub The Hay Merchant continues to draw crowds with its badass selection of on-tap brews and funky fare (sweet & spicy pig ears, anyone?).

Next door at Underbelly, Chef Chris Shepherd tells "the story of Houston food" through an ethnic mosaic of seasonal shared plates. And since it’s Shepherd, said plates feature the best farmers market produce, fresh seafood, and locally raised meats (which are butchered in-house, because of course) around.

Thomas Chen Photography

Lankford Grocery & Market

Montrose
This family-owned greasy spoon has been a Houston institution since opening as a grocery in 1939. Loyal patrons know to bring cash and grab a roll of paper towels before digging into smothered cheese enchiladas, old-fashioned tuna melts, and sloppy-as-hell frankenburgers like the mac-and-cheese-jalapeño-bacon-and-egg-loaded Grim Burger.

Thrillist/Brooke Viggiano

Crawfish & Noodles

Alief/Outer Loop
It doesn’t get more "Mutt City" than Cajun-Vietnamese fusion. Bowls of piping hot, garlic-butter-soaked crawfish waft intoxicating scents through this Chinatown eatery along with nuoc-mam-glazed chicken wings, whole-fried blue crabs, and rich, slow-simmered beef and pork meatball pho.

Flickr/T.Tseng

Uchi 

Montrose
Though this heavy-hitter is an offshoot of an Austin original, its sophisticated, upbeat spirit is uniquely Houston. The Montrose haunt’s sleek feel combined with its consistently immaculate sushi and sashimi, inspired modern Japanese plates, and impeccable wine program make the always-packed restaurant hard to beat.

Thrillist/Brooke Viggiano

The Pass & Provisions 

Montrose
Though these dual-concept, space-sharing restaurants – one refined and one spunky – haven’t been around long, they feel wholly Houston. Enter a secret door to indulge in a five- or eight-course tasting menu that’s both polished and edgy at the white-table-cloth-laden Pass; or nosh on equally-as-thrilling pizzas, pastas, and shared bistro plates at the urban-rustic Provisions. Some serious cocktail and wine programs push the two restaurants to the next level of insanity, as does Julia Child’s Muppet voice playing on repeat in the unisex bathroom.

Flickr/T. Tseng

Killen’s Steakhouse / Killen’s BBQ

Pearland
With USDA prime and Kobe beef that literally melts in your damn mouth, plus slabs of smoked brisket and ribs that rival any ‘cue in the country, we couldn’t choose just one of these local masterpieces. After years of success with his home-grown steakhouse, Chef Ronnie Killen killed it with his line-down-the-block barbecue pop-up this past year. Thankfully, that pop-up finally manifested itself, Pinocchio-style, into a full-fledged restaurant in February. Now our only problem is deciding which one to visit next.

Flickr/T. Tseng

Laredo Taqueria

Washington
If the constant line out the door proves anything, it’s that even in a city full of tacos, the full-flavored breakfast and lunch tacos at this orange shack on Washington shine (and the same can be said for its other two locations). Line up at the steam table for the softest handmade tortillas stuffed with chorizo, barbacoa, and chicharrones, just like your abuela used to make.

Alex Gregg

Ninfa’s on Navigation

East End
This Tex-Mex hotspot may be the OG of fajitas (for real, they’re credited with launching the national fajita craze), but that’s not all they are good for. Devoted fans flock to the original location for as-big-as-your-head frozen margs and kickass Mexican staples like mole enchiladas, Oaxacan-style pork tamales, and jalapeño-stuffed Shrimp Diablo.

Pondicheri

Pondicheri

Upper Kirby
Despite what outsiders may think, it’s not all Tex-Mex and BBQ in Houston. The locally influenced mix of home-style and Indian street foods make this modern Indian resto one of the city’s top dining destinations. Gorge on scratch-made snacks like pickled shrimp and roasted corn chaat, a plethora of curries and thalis, or chocolate-saffron-and-cardamom-infused sweets from their addiction-inducing "bake lab".

Thrillist/Brooke Viggiano

Moon Tower Inn 

East End
Quirky, fun, and relaxed, this offbeat craft brew and exotic hot dog joint describes Houston in a nutshell. Grab a loaded-up wild game sausage and a pint or five from the wall of taps; then partake in whatever silliness – be it a horror movie night, BOGO burger frenzy, or growler give-away – that’s going in their huge backyard that day.

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1. Oxheart 1302 Nance St, Houston, TX 77002 (Downtown)

This 31-seat modern eatery from husband-and-wife team Justin Yu and Karen Man is the gold standard for tasting menus in Houston, with each course thoughtfully composed and painstakingly plated. The menus are vegetable heavy but crafted in a way where omnivores will really appreciate what meat is present. Just don’t forget to save room for Man’s celestial desserts.

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2. Danton's Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen 4611 Montrose , Houston, TX 77006 (Montrose)

Occupying the bottom floor of Montrose's Chelsea Market, Danton's Gulf Coast Seafood Kitchen is a timeless 200-seat seafood restaurant with both a dining room and a separate oyster bar. You won't find any fast-fleeing trends in the atmosphere or the food here, just a constant after-work dinner rush and a menu full of Southern favorites. Big groups can usually be found around a platter of fresh-shucked oysters, and temptation for grilled fish or steak rarely bows out.

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3. The Hay Merchant / Underbelly 1100 Westheimer Rd, Houston, TX 77006 (Montrose)

A joint venture, The Hay Merchant and Underbelly operate separately but are attached via a butchering room that’s fit to hold a whole hog, a cow, and other large, meat-bearing animals. Hay Merchant, a craft beer bar, boasts 75 draft beers that range in style from cask-conditioned American porters to sour and funky wild ales. Underbelly, the more upscale of the two, is a restaurant and wine bar serving up juicy burgers and meats, like roasted pig’s head and smoked brisket. No matter how adventurous your palate, consider pairing your dish with one of the aged barleywines on tap.

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4. Lankford Grocery & Market 88 Dennis St, Houston, TX 77006 (Montrose)

This Houston institution on Dennis St has been in business since 1939, selling groceries to locals alongside old-fashioned tuna melts and huge burgers. Everything is made to order, so the service takes time, and you simply pay at the counter when you're finished eating. The space itself is kitschy and quaint with shaded picnic tables outside for some greasy al fresco dining.

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5. Crawfish & Noodles 11360 Bellaire Blvd Ste 990, Houston, TX 77072

Crawfish & Noodles serves up an unexpected combination of Cajun and Vietnamese food to west Houston. On the corner of a Bellaire Ave strip mall, C&N impresses with bowls of piping hot, garlic-butter-soaked crawfish alongside the likes of slow-simmered beef and pork meatball pho. This joint's also got a massive dining space with ample seating and even a dance floor, which makes it a prime spot for private parties and events for the whole family.

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6. Uchi 904 Westheimer Rd, Houston, TX 77006 (Montrose)

Originally an Austin joint, Uchi is a sleek, modern Japanese spot in Montrose that'll hook you up with fresh, delicious sushi and sashimi, unique tasting plates, and an outstanding wine and sake selection. Even sushi traditionalists will be tempted by the razor sharp cuts with funky, outside-the-box adornments. If you’re having trouble deciding, go for the 10-course chef’s tasting.

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7. The Pass & Provisions 807 Taft St, Houston, TX 77019 (Montrose)

Two-faced in the best way possible, The Pass & Provisions in Montrose offer you a choice between a more refined experience, or a more relaxed one. The Pass will serve you polished five- or eight-course tasting menus over a white table cloth, or Provisions will provide hearty pizzas, pastas, and shared bistro plates in more rustic surroundings. Some serious cocktail and wine programs push the two restaurants to the next level of insanity, as does Julia Child’s Muppet voice playing on repeat in the unisex bathroom.

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8. Killen's Steakhouse 6425 W Broadway St, Pearland, TX 77581 (Pearland)

Chef Ronnie Killen's home-grown steakhouse features melt-in-your-mouth USDA Prime and Kobe beef with sides like seared foie gras and even mac and cheese. Killen’s will remind you of a small-town roadhouse, but one with white tablecloths and a killer wine list. To say that his unctuous, bronto-sized beef ribs are good is an understatement, but you’ll be sorry if you don’t save room for the kitchen’s super moist and decadent bread pudding— the sweet stuff reaches galactic levels of excellence when mixed with seasonal flavors, like the pumpkin spice number topped with caramel sauce.

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9. Killen's BBQ 3613 Broadway St, Pearland, TX 77581 (Pearland)

This Pearland brick-and-mortar barbecue joint, born from the success of Chef Ronnie Killen's immensely popular pop-up, delivers mouth-watering 'cue like slabs of smoked brisket, pulled pork, and homemade sausages. Killen has training at Le Cordon Bleu and does the BBQ classics in a way that exceeds Texas standards of size and taste. Try some of the more unexpected menu items, like brisket tamales or fried chicken.

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10. Laredo Taqueria 915 Snover St, Houston, TX 77007 (Washington)

This bright orange shack is hard to miss -- right off of Washington Ave with a line out the door as a result of their seriously delicious breakfast and lunch tacos -- get in line and prepare for some fluffy, handmade tortillas stuffed with chorizo, barbacoa, and chicharrones.

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11. Ninfa's on Navigation 2704 Navigation Blvd, Houston, TX 77003 (East End)

The fajitas at the original Tex-Mex outpost on Navigation earn their cook the title of Mexican fare experts. Alongside the fajitas, staples like mole enchiladas, Oaxacan-style pork tamales, and jalapeño-stuffed Shrimp Diablo (not to mention the head-sized frozen margaritas) take some serious culinary chops, which means these dishes go far above and beyond Houston's other Tex-Mex eateries.

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12. Pondicheri 2800 Kirby Dr, Houston, TX 77098

This Indian fusion spot in Upper Kirby serves a mix of street snacks and home-style foods all day long. The extensive menu includes a nice roster of dosas, thali sample platters, and curries, plus burgers and Mumbai-style frankie wraps. Pondicheri isn't 100% vegetarian (there are plenty of lamb and chicken dishes), but its menu is generally plant-forward. The airy space resembles an upscale cafeteria and includes a counter-serve bakery with Indian-spiced pastries and baked goods.

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13. Moon Tower Inn 3004 Canal St, Houston, TX 77003 (East End)

Awesome events like horror movie nights and growler giveaways, tons of craft brews from their wall of taps, and exotic hot dogs like a wild game sausage make Moon Tower Inn a unique and enjoyable hangout. Oh, and they have a backyard, too.

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