Get a taste of French cuisine

French grub can be problematic, what with its reliance on dairy, its intense richness, and its irrational need to headbutt Italian cuisine in the chest on an international stage, right at the worst possible moment. For a more winning -- and less heavy -- take on French cuisine, hit June.

From the dude behind Queen Anne's popular Portage, June (named for the chef's daughter) is dishing up a lighter take on classic franco-fare in a bright, concrete-floored pseudo-subterranean bistro featuring high-backed booths/banquets, walls arted with floral watercolors, and farmhouse-style furniture, which tends to attract clusterflies alas, and this time of year it's bad. Straight-from-the-grill items include a sweet n sour mustard/gaufrette Painted Hills Burger on a pretzel bun, a Honey Cured Pork Loin Chop w/ham hock & peas, and a controne beans/black trumpet mushroom Steak Bavette w/ tongue (after all, you are Frenching). Other fare ranges from a walnut crumb'd Baked Spinach Gnocchi, to an artichoke/carrot jus Halibut, to potato risotto & Seared Diver Scallops, who are still recovering from a bad reputation for flopping.

June also features a range of cold "bites" including Yellow Tail Sashimi w/ radish salad & miso mustard, and Pepper Air Dried Duck Breast, as well as a full bar with a French heavy wine list, which might be problematic, if you weren't just going to order the second cheapest.