Big time italian near Lincoln Center

The much-anticipated solo venture from Per Se's former chef du cuisine, Lincoln's cavernous space feels like a relaxed museum thanks to undulating ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, and the centerpiece exhibit of an open kitchen. While the market-based menus change daily, the general vibe's pan-italian, from foie/rabbit/sweetbread terrine, to bigoli pasta studded with Dungeness crab/sea urchin, to Brodetto di Pesce, where red snapper and shrimp float in a shellfish broth that, being only out for itself, will be reluctant to give up said bounty.