You know how completely unremarkable Rincon #39 -- the former Twins middle reliever -- was? Well, Rincon 38 is the exact opposite: an explosive Kingfield tapas joint from the fella who brought you Cafe Ena and El Meson. The light-flooded space is slim, designed to mock you after you bloat yourself on all this tapas. Holy balls! Or, more precisely, holy bacalao! That's Spanish for salted cod croquetas served over salmon aioli and topped with parsley oil. Casting greasy squid aside, their meaty slices of calamari are crusted with light polenta and served with Pimenton aioli. Imagine a tuna melt crossed with bruschetta and you're in the ballpark of these piquillo peppers stuffed with Spanish tuna and roasted atop a toasted baguette. Lemon oil and 12yr balsamic drizzled over Serrano ham, salchichon, spicy chorizo, Soria sausage, and Basque olives, which you'll want to separate from this plate. An almost entree (alm-tree?), this thyme-crusted pork tenderloin is served over braised taters, roasted artichokes, and cauliflower. Couple nifty things about their wine list: it consists entirely of old-world vino (like this Chateau Bonfort 2010), and it's all available by both the glass and half-glass, if you're a half-man. Of course they've also got these six taps ranging from Fulton on the local end to Negra Modelo on the international, plus big cans of French beer, housemade sangria, and something they call the Rincon 38 Sparkling Cocktail, which hopefully won't make like Juan and occasionally come out flat.