“The background of DBGB, it’s kind of Daniel [Boulud’s] interpretation of the American table meets French bistro. So the idea was to put something that Americans could identify with,” executive chef Nicholas Tang says. Serving it flaming, executive pastry chef Jayce Baudry adds, was their way of incorporating French fine-dining showmanship into the dessert menu.
“In the last 10 years in pastry there has been a movement where everyone was taking back old desserts, in French, in America, and they try to reinvent them,” Baudry says.
It may be making a comeback in home kitchens, too. In 2016, Deb Perelman’s Smitten Kitchen, a food blog for home chefs with about 6 million unique views, featured a Baked Alaska recipe for her 10th anniversary post. Just two years before that, the recipe was a “signature challenge” on an episode of The Great British Bake Off -- a show that features amateur home bakers who compete solely for bragging rights. That episode was one of the most scandalous in the show’s history, as one of the contestants mistakenly removed another’s dish from the freezer -- essentially sabotaging him. Bingate, as the ordeal was called, was all over the British tabloids for weeks.