With its stone exterior, arches, 17-foot-tall ceilings, ornate staircases, and lush marble, Bottega’ss digs look like an ancient Roman structure inexplicably thrust into Birmingham. But once you’ve climbed the grand staircase to the mezzanine, you’ll find yourself at the confluence of Italy and the deep south, which makes more sense than it has any right to. Like any southern dining spot worth its considerable salt, this is a place where course is accompanied by pomp and circumstance, but chef Frank Sitts has more than a few tricks up his sleeve as he incorporates techniques and ingredients separated by continents. Here, lobster joins spaghetti in a spicy unison of flavors. Grilled quail converges with pancetta and sweet potatoes. A lamb porterhouse finds solace with Sicilian caponata, egg salad gets kicked up with pancetta and fried oysters, and fritto misto takes a cue from ettoouffe in incorporating snapper, shrimp, oysters, and peppers. The menu changes often. But what you can always expect is an experience unlike anything else.