More From Year In Review
Jonah crab salad with waffle fries
GiantAddress and Info
A big part of the reason Thrillist tapped Jason Vincent as its chef of the year is his uncanny ability to craft dishes that seem relatively simple on the surface, yet possess an underlying complexity (you know, along with the fact that they taste ridiculously good). Such is the case with this smash-hit dish from Vincent's Giant. The notion of a platter incorporating some seafood, some fries, and some spicy cocktail sauce is hardly revolutionary. Yet when you taste the delicate crab salad paired with the revelatory fries (which are actually deep-fried mashed potatoes and pâte à choux dough) you realize you're having an entirely new experience, all while wishing the serving size were about 10 times larger.
Hot chicken sandwich
Howlin' Ray'sAddress and Info
Los Angeles, California
The restaurant is called Howlin' Ray's because of the howling sound grown men make when they bite into its already-legendary hot chicken sandwich. Yeah OK, that's not true. But this Nashville-inspired, spicy-as-hell chicken sandwich is nothing to mess with. Coated with a blast of dried peppers and garlic, it's served hot straight out of the fryer, still glistening. The sandwich gets an extra boost of heat from "comeback sauce" (that's mayo mixed with chili sauce for the uninitiated). A pile of coleslaw and pickles offsets the juicy meat with a vinegary crunch. It's hot, yes, but it's also one of the best no-frills chicken sandwiches in Los Angeles.
Roast duck flambé
Beatrice InnAddress and Info
New York, New York
In a city besotted with carrot crepes and fried cauliflower, chef Angie Mar's (our New York chef of the year) Beatrice Inn feels like a throwback in more ways than one, with its big, hulking cuts of meat and old-school tableside flair. Take the Peking duck-inspired roast duck flambé: A whole bird is salt-cured for four days, cold-smoked over applewood, and then slowly roasted. On delivery to the table, it is drenched with booze and set ablaze in a process more elegant than the time sloshed Uncle Tony decided to fry a turkey. Even New York’s most Instagrammable grain bowls ain't got nothing on this.
Fried chicken with curry
Hat YaiAddress and Info
Two years ago, chef Earl Ninsom opened Langbaan, a prix fixe dinner club in the back of his Thai restaurant PaaDee that quickly became one of Portland's most lauded restaurants. How do you follow that? By opening up an unassuming counter-service fried chicken and curry spot on a nondescript stretch of a thoroughfare, apparently. But that fried chicken is anything but unassuming. Plump and exploding with fresh-ground pepper spice, the bird comes alongside a complex bowl of curry, teeming with cumin, chili, and coconut milk. The curry can be used to dunk roti (flatbread), pour over rice, or just drink. Nobody will judge.
DestroyerAddress and Info
Culver City, California
The phrase "raw food" tends to conjure up images of green juice-chugging, yoga-doing health fanatics who insist eating a pound of carrots a day is the path to enlightenment. But this oatmeal will, well, destroy any notions you have about munching on some dry oats. But you shouldn't expect anything else from chef Jordan Kahn, who has made a career on getting a little bit weird. Infused with almond milk and red currants, and topped with an otherworldly looking vanilla-flavored disk, this futuristic-looking bowl of oats is far from boring. More importantly, it's warm, creamy, and outrageously delicious.
Grey GhostAddress and Info
You don't land on "best restaurant" lists (including ours!) in a city in the midst of a food renaissance without doing something special. You don't set up shop in the former home of Midtown's legendary Ye Olde Butcher Shoppe unless you're bringing some serious meat game. And you sure as hell don't put fried bologna on a menu full of masterful house charcuterie and dry-aged rib-eye unless you know what you're doing. Luckily, Chicago natives John Vermiglio and Josef Giacomino know exactly what they're doing, and what they're doing is loading house-made fried bologna onto a waffle, then piling on sharp cheddar and jalapeños in a way that will forever change how you view lunch's most misunderstood cold cut.
Oxtail French onion soup
The FederalAddress and Info
Between projects like YEAH! BURGER and casual fried/roasted chicken spot Bantam + Biddy, Atlanta restaurateur Shaun Doty's got plenty of cred. So it's unsurprising that The Federal -- his newest venture -- isn't messing around with its melding of pan-Euro bistro and Southern flair. For proof, look no further than the oxtail French onion soup. Why? Because it takes everything about the dish to the next level: Tender chunks of oxtail commingle with plenty of cave-aged Gruyere and onion to create a gooey, savory masterpiece that makes soup for dinner an exciting proposition.
The Jewbano pizza
Paulie Gee's MiamiAddress and Info
Paulie Gee's makes some of the best damn pizza in New York City. That's a difficult thing to achieve considering that the streets of NYC are practically paved with pizza. The chain recently opened an outpost in Miami, where it debuted a pie reflective of its new home: the Jewbano, a riff on the popular Cubano sandwich. Atop a pillowy Neapolitan-style crust, scorched in all the right places, is a meaty mash-up of melty Swiss cheese, whisper-thin slices of kosher dill pickles, yellow mustard, and two decidedly not-kosher elements: Cuban pulled pork and Canadian bacon. Somehow the briny, meaty, cheesy combination works. Just maybe don't tell your rabbi.
All of the Meats charcuterie platter
MorcillaAddress and Info
Why have just one of the meats, when you can have all of them? Especially when you're dining at Morcilla, one of the Steel City's finest new restaurants. The restaurant, which is an ode to Spain's Basque Country, is known for its house-made charcuterie program -- meaning there are no Lunchables pepperoni slices in sight. When the platter comes to the table make sure to be the first to grab the namesake morcilla (Spanish blood sausage) and legendary jamon Iberico de bellota before your friends do -- or better yet, just order a platter for yourself.
Poutine o' the Sea
The White Swan Public HouseAddress and Info
There is only one way to improve The White Swan Public House's beloved chowder, which is one of the best things to eat in Seattle. Spoon it over some fries and transform it into poutine. The Poutine o’ the Sea doesn't come with cheese curds like most versions of poutine. But don't fret: Instead you are rewarded with a healthy amount of littleneck clams, bacon, and scallions. It's hard to be sad about that!
Mile High Funfetti Cake
Hail MaryAddress and Info
Brooklyn, New York
Imagine that beloved, but definitely subpar boxed mix of Funfetti cake from high school parties went to an Ivy League university and grew up to be the president of all Funfetti cakes. That would be this cake. Co-owner Sohla El-Waylly makes everything for it from scratch, including the giant rose-flavored rainbow sprinkles that adorn it. The tender cake, swathed in lush buttercream and oversized Funfetti the size of pick-up sticks, has become so popular, that the restaurant only serves it Friday-Sunday. And yes, fine, the cake isn't literally a mile high, but you'll sure wish it were after eating it.
Hot dog bun
The Bakery at Fat RiceAddress and Info
While Fat Rice has been wowing Chicagoans with its Macau-inspired culinary wizardry for a few years now, this year saw the restaurant expand into the space next door. The expansion, to much rejoicing, included a bakery. There was even more rejoicing when people discovered that said bakery included this beautiful marriage between the delicately sweet dough of a Chinese bun and the iconic toppings of a Chicago-style dog (Vienna Beef, of course). They're all there, the poppy seeds, the neon relish, the sport pepper jutting (phallically) out of the center. You'll notice the mustard's a little spicier than what you might normally expect, but on the plus side it's baked on, which will spare your shirt when you end up eating five in one sitting.
Cacio e pepe
Emmer & RyeAddress and Info
Despite this era of gluten-free everything (applesauce? Really?), both house-milled grains and the ridiculously simple pasta dish cacio e pepe, literally cheese and pepper, are having something of a moment. The two reach their elemental peak at Emmer & Rye, where chef Kevin Fink mills Blue Beard durum wheat himself for the spaghetti, along with 15 other grains he uses in the restaurant. It gives his crazy-rich version of cacio e pepe its toothy bite, while the 10-month-aged, raw-milk Challerhocker cheese provides its creamy, nutty depth. Don't be surprised if you convert the gluten-averse at your table for just one... more... bite.
Edamame and truffle dumplings
Double KnotAddress and Info
You'd think that a place that pulls quadruple duty as a coffee shop, lunchtime destination, thriving bar, and lauded, semi-hidden izakaya/sushi restaurant would have a bit of an identity crisis. Yet Michael Schulson's new restaurant does it all, and well! Perfectly mushy, truffle-kissed mashed edamame beans are stuffed into tender, poppable little dumplings which get bathed in tangy sake broth. They're only $4 at happy hour, and you don't need to score a seat downstairs to get them. But you really should. That robatayaki spread includes lamb chops and venison -- the best chaser to veggie dumplings after all.
Sourdough biscuits with crab fat butter
Toups SouthAddress and Info
New Orleans, Louisiana
Chef Isaac Toups is known for his love of meat -- his first restaurant is called Toups Meatery after all. But at his newest venture, the real star of the menu is surprisingly a biscuit, which speaks to how damn good it is. Toups makes his puffy, golden version with sourdough for an extra tang. More importantly, it comes covered with with an über-rich spread of butter melded with custardy crab fat, a trick he picked up in South Carolina's Lowcountry. Take that, Popeyes.
Concord grape sorbet & fior di latte ice cream
Tartine ManufactoryAddress and Info
San Francisco, California
Sorry Chubby Hubby, there's a new ice cream flavor worth obsessing over thanks to San Francisco's Tartine Manufactory. While co-owners Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt built their mini-empire by baking some very excellent bread, it turns out they have some serious ice cream chops, too. The duo is now making a deeply hued Concord grape sorbet (a very rare ice cream flavor) that is served swirled with a rich-but-tangy fior di latte soft serve that you'll have no choice but to Instagram. If a cone won't do, the restaurant also serves the ice cream in a shell made from peanut butter cookie dough, making it the PB&J pie of your dreams.
Fried chicken coq au vin
ConvivialAddress and Info
Not content with offering one of America's best brunches, French chef Cedric Maupillier took Franco-American fusion to new heights this year at his Shaw-neighborhood destination Convivial. Perhaps his greatest accomplishment? A take on the classic wine-braised chicken dish known as coq au vin. Maupillier subs in the slow-cooked chicken for crispy, pressure-fried thighs and serves the meat over a bed of potatoes that is loaded with mushrooms and lardons (that's a fancy word for bacon), and glazed with a wine sauce. Basically, it's a fusion of French and North American sensibilities that gives poutine a run for its money.
1. Giant3209 W Armitage Ave, Chicago
2. The Bakery at Fat Rice2951 W Diversey Ave, Chicago
3. Convivial801 O St NW, Washington
4. Grey Ghost47 E Watson St, Detroit
5. Howlin' Ray's727 N Broadway #128, Los Angeles
6. Destroyer3578 Hayden Ave, Los Angeles
7. Paulie Gee's8001 Biscayne Blvd, Miami
8. Toups South1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd, New Orleans
9. Hail Mary68 Greenpoint Ave, Brooklyn
10. Morcilla3519 Butler St, Pittsburgh
11. Hat Yai1605 NE Killingsworth St., Portland
12. The White Swan Public House1001 Fairview Ave N, Seattle
13. Tartine Manufactory595 Alabama St, San Francisco
14. Double Knot120 S 13th St, Philadelphia
15. The Federal1050 Crescent Ave NE, Atlanta
16. Emmer & Rye51 Rainey St, Ste 110, Austin
17. The Beatrice Inn285 W 12th St, New York
Chef Jason Vincent, a former Food & Wine Best New Chef, is behind Giant, a tiny 40-seat restaurant in Logan Square. The upscale Midwestern-inspired menu is unpretentious and hearty in nature (opening menu dishes included pecan-smoked baby back ribs, garlic buttermilk potatoes, and biscuits with jalapeno butter) but nonetheless exciting and unexpected. The bite-size fried uni shooters are a standout, made of a crispy, golden exterior and rich, silky interior. The space itself is reflective of the food: quirkily designed but comforting.
From acclaimed Chef Abe Conlon comes The Bakery at Fat Rice, located right next door to the beloved Macanese restaurant that shares its name. Conlon's counter-serve bakery specializes in hybrid Chinese, Portuguese, and Macanese baked goods, sweet and savory alike. During the day, stop by for coffee and items like Portuguese egg tarts, mochi stuffed with coconut, black sesame, and peanuts, and the Chicago-style hot dog bun (pictured), which is essentially a hot dog chopped up and embedded in a Chinese bun. At night, the bakery transforms into a small pestico bar, servings snacks and cocktails mostly to patient guests waiting for a table next door.
Chef Cedric Maupillier has taken his native French cuisine to the next level at this upscale Shaw restaurant. The menu is an exposé of crave-worthy but affordable plates like escargot pigs-in-a-blanket and ravioli stuffed with seasonal veggie purées. As far as cocktails go, expect to sip on minimalist drinks and European wines.
Craft cocktails and house-made charcuterie reign at the sleek and industrial Grey Ghost. The menu brings stereotypically lowbrow dishes to an elevated level, like bologna, which is fried and served on a toasted waffle with sharp cheddar and jalapeño. Fries, too, get the fancy treatment -- they're paired with the not-so-subtly named Fancy Sauce -- and for dessert, peanut butter & jelly gets a makeover in a sundae with concord grapes and peanut fry bread. Cocktails are strong no matter if you have champagne or PBR taste, given that veteran bartender Will Lee is behind the shaker.
This Chinatown chicken specialist is the brick-and-mortar outpost of the beloved food truck of the same name. Howlin' Ray's counter-service joint serves up Nashville-style hot chicken sandwiches in five increasing levels of spiciness: mild, medium, hot, extra hot, and howlin' hot, the last of which is characterized by a slightly sweet but intense cayenne pepper burn that's unlike any spice mix you've tasted before. The howlin' hot chicken is almost too spicy to order on its own, which is where the rotating array of daily sides specials like bacon creamed corn and pimento macaroni salad, plus crinkly-cut fries, come in handy to cool your mouth down.
Chef Jordan Kahn's bad-boy rep lives on in the name of this minimalist, Nordic-inspired cafe in Culver City, where he's cooking up a daily-changing menu of unique breakfast and lunch dishes. The 16-seat space matches the surrounding neighborhood -- an industrial area turned design district -- with its carefully curated furniture, ceramics, and menu that's featured raw oatmeal and fried kale (a first for LA). San Francisco's Coffee Manufactory and Portland's Roseline supply caffeine and bring a sense of familiarity to an otherwise unpredictable menu.
The Biscayne Boulevard outpost of Brooklyn-born Paulie Gee’s is bringing a slice of coveted New York pizza to North Miami with its wood-fired, Neapolitan pies. Options range from the classic -- topped with Italian tomatoes, arugula, and Parmesan -- to the experimental, like the Miami-appropriate “Jewbano,” a play on a Cuban sandwich topped with Swiss cheese, yellow mustard, Canadian bacon, pulled pork, and kosher dill pickles. For the dairy-averse, there are multiple vegan pies on offer (also Miami-appropriate), because nobody should be deprived of pizza. No matter what slice suits you, it’s best enjoyed with a Mexican Coke.
Considering this industrial-chic restaurant from Isaac Toups is located in the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, you know the home-style and barbecue dishes are going to be authentic. Toups even uses BBQ king Aaron Franklin’s original smoker (which was donated to the museum) to cook refined plates of smoked leg of lamb, foie gras terrine, and brown sugar-glazed pork belly. You'll also find regional dishes like black-eyed peas, sourdough biscuits with crab fat butter, and heritage pork boudin on the menu.
From husband and wife culinary duo Hisham and Sohla Wel-Waylly, this Greenpoint restaurant is reimagining the classic American diner in an upscale but laid-back way. Aside from classics like bacon and eggs, an American cheese-topped burger, and a turkey club, the menu features more experimental dishes like duck hearts and spaghetti with uni butter. The 74-seat space includes an old-school soda fountain area up front. You'll know you're in the right place when you see the painting of two Virgin Marys wearing diner hats at the entrance.
Morcilla, Justin Severino's second restaurant in Lawrenceville, is an ode to Spain's Basque Country and its pintxo style of dining. A close relative of tapas, pinxtos are small plates that -- as reimagined by Severino -- emphasize house-made charcuterie, croquetas (fried balls filled with the likes of jamon, chestnut, and bacalao), and egg tortillas. A meal at Morcilla isn't complete without a gin and tonic made with the restaurant's house-made tonics, or a Spanish cider. The design, too, is inspired by Basque culture, with wooden ceilings and a storefront that looks like many a tapas bar in San Sebastian.
From Earl Nimson of PaaDee and Langbaan, Hat Yai serves exciting Southern Thai food in a casual, counter-serve space. Though the spicy street food is enough of a lure, the Thai fried chicken here is a game-changer in itself, served not with biscuits or French fries but a scoop of sticky rice. There's other noteworthy stuff on the menu, like the scorchingly hot Southern Thai ground pork and the house chicken curry with handmade roti (for dipping, of course).
White Swan was destined to be a hit when it opened in 2016. It's owned by the well-respected team behind Matt's in the Market and Radiator Whiskey, it offers prime waterfront views, and its menu showcases some of the most innovative Seattle cuisine yet. The emphasis is on seafood but you'll find a fair amount of meat, so expect steamed clams and blue king prawns alongside pork belly rillons and a pimento cheese crispy chicken sandwich. The mother of all dishes here is the Poutine O' The Sea (pictured), which features a base of thick French fries with a gravy-like topping of Littleneck clams, chowder, bacon, and scallions.
From Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt, Tartine Manufactory is the biggest iteration yet of their sensational Mission-based bakery, Tartine. The 6,000sqft space is home to a coffee shop, bakery, ice cream dispensary, and restaurant. A celebration of all things handmade, Manufactory features floor-length windows, cavernous light, and ergonomic, reclaimed wood furniture. You could easily spend an entire day here making your way through the savory morning pastries, bread pudding, and flatbread sandwiches.
Double Knot is a dining destination for any time of day, opening early in the morning to supply you with coffee, enduring the midday rush for build-your-own salad or rice bowls, and powering into the evening with a thriving bar scene. Walk past the bar, bookcases, and old mirrors, and enter the door in the back where a hidden sushi bar awaits. The extravagant yet relatively affordable menu features sushi, robatayaki meats, and other Japanese izakaya fare.
Named after the nearby Federal Reserve Bank of Atlanta, Shaun Doty's (Bantam+Biddy, YEAH! Burger) restaurant is part European bistro, part American steakhouse. The winning combination yields heavy French- and German-inspired dishes like pork schnitzel, steak frites, and oxtail French onion soup, plus standard steakhouse cuts. Open all day, The Federal serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner as well as coffee and cocktails, making it a reliable spot for Midtown nine-to-fivers looking for a morning caffeine break, post-work drink, and anything in between.
Named after two grains, Emmer & Rye is a contemporary American restaurant that, unsurprisingly, serves a grain-heavy menu in a dining room where bundles of wheat are on full display. More than 15 heirloom grains, including White Sonora, Blue Beard Durum, and Red Fife, are house-milled and used in baguette sandwiches, pastries, and pastas like the creamy, slightly nutty cacio e pepe with Challerhocker cheese. The menu also emphasizes fermented vegetables and meat-centric plates (the fermenting and butchering are also done in-house). In addition to à la carte service, Emmer & Rye has a food cart that circles the dining room during brunch and dinner with dim sum-style small plates. Offerings change daily but you’ll always find innovative compositions with unusual ingredients -- how often do you see Blue Beard Durum wheat on a menu, after all?
The Beatrice Inn has been around the West Village since the 1920s, morphing from a speakeasy to a neighborhood Italian spot to a star-studded club owned by a Vanity Fair editor to a flat-lining chophouse... until chef Angie Mar, previously of the Spotted Pig, came to save the day and raise the stakes. Her menu leans heavily on large portions of dry-aged steaks and lavish burgers. Don't skip the meat pies, dramatically plated with a marrow-filled bone protruding through flaky crusts. Mar's cooking received critical acclaim (notably by Pete Wells at The New York Times), culminating in her 2016 purchase of the restaurant from the owners who hired her three years prior. We're proud to have named her our 2016 NYC Chef of the Year.