The rostis also appear on the brunch menu as buns for the restaurant’s ultra-popular cheeseburger. “I was never going to make a gluten free bun because I'm a baker and pastry chef,” Speer says with a laugh. “So I guess this is my gluten-free answer.” They may technically be gluten-free, but for the most part, Bonhomie is blissfully unconcerned with accommodating the latest fad diet. Speer is generous with the pour of velvety béchamel on the restaurant’s satisfying croque monsieur, and even the memorable roasted squash, dotted with soft golden raisins and savory pine nuts, is tossed with a munificence of brown butter and goat cheese.
Say someone was on the search for something lighter, even diet-friendly -- order the bowl of lettuce. In fact, it’s something every diner should do. Though it sounds unassuming, the salad -- made from a mix of crisp greens, a refreshingly citrusy vinaigrette, and a bounty of herbs -- is one of the best I've ever had. It’s the simplest dishes that tend to reveal how smooth a restaurant’s ship is sailing, and Bonhomie has caught a tailwind. More focused than ever, Speer is back and Austin is better for it.