One would be remiss to eat at Kitsune and not order the okonomiyaki. While many people would call the dish a “Japanese pizza,” it’s more accurately a large, savory pancake topped with a melange of seasonal vegetables, pickled ginger, kotsuobushi (smoked tuna flakes), a hefty drizzle of Kewpie mayo, and a blanket of dancing bonito flakes.
The most Midwestern aspect of Kitsune is its ambitious bread program. It relies on kogi, a mold used to ferment sake and soy sauce. "There is nowhere in Japan that would serve bread," says Regan. "But they use kogi in so many ways... so we put the two together." The bread, made from a mix of kogi, sourdough starter, rice, and bread flour milled from grain grown just a few states away, is dense but with an airy crumb structure. It’s best consumed as the base for a "toad in the hole" made with miso butter, egg, and a topping of raw, sapid beef tartare. At $20 per slice, it’s probably one of the most expensive pieces of toast in the country, but it is also one of the tastiest.