The wealth of quality seafood in Hawaii is overwhelming, and in Honolulu the allure of modernist, fancy places serving sashimi often serves as smoke and mirrors hiding pricy mediocrity. Kin Chan ditches all frills, and its no-bullshit approach to incredible, fresh, expertly prepared sushi makes it the hole-in-the-wall choice for many a local who knows that true quality is assessed purely on what’s atop that sushi rice. The 12-seater is simple, with bamboo art, glowing sake bottles, and a scant three people working the scene. The Kin Chan special will net you an emperor’s share of seasonally appropriate sushi and sashimi, with Japanese river real, otoro tuna belly, and king crab standouts of the simple, exquisite roster. The room populated with returning locals is the first evidence that you’re in great, skilled hands here.