In Halperin’s mind, as chefs and restaurateurs take classic concepts of comfort food and modernize it, they’ll elevate the experience of eating dishes like meatloaf and chicken soup, while still maintaining the elements that make it comforting.
If you ask some experts, they’ll tell you that the fact that comfort food seems to be sticking around is unsettling. It could signify that we, as a country, are uncertain of what’s to come, so we’re turning to the dishes we’re most familiar with, instead of branching out. But, simple, honest cooking has been championed for decades -- even by the greatest of chefs. James Beard said that it was “better to undercook than overcook.” So, maybe, we’re just starting to celebrate that.
“Comfort food is growing up,” says Halperin. “If you can capture [its] characteristics, but in a newer version of it, you can contemporize the entire experience. And that’s why I think this whole notion of comfort food is going to be around for a long time.”