You should still be able to pick good, cool spots, but, you know, maybe the ones that have been around for a little bit and might give you a little more space and cut you more slack and don't serve amuse-bouches.
2. Just go early and deal with it
Yes, this advice may seem obvious, but there have been several recent occasions when I've been out to dinner sans children at 9:30pm and seen toddlers absolutely dragging and losing their shit while their parents are still cranking on the cabernet. And maybe that is a French thing, and you're not supposed to let your kid dictate your schedule, but I also recognize that when children sleeps a regular amount of time, they are tiny angel people, and when they sleep an irregular amount of time, they are all basically tiny Cersei Lannisters.
Plus, whenever we show up to a restaurant with our child and it's 5pm or like 9am on the weekend and I see some other non-children'd people in there, I mentally am like, "OK, other people. By agreeing to come this early to a restaurant, you have basically already signed a release stating that you are OK with children and will not sigh audibly when my daughter inevitably starts shouting every noun she knows."