Tomato flavor: 5/10 - Weirdly funky, but not in a terrible way. Because the foundation here is a pretzel, there’s a breadiness to the tomato flavor that makes it feel more like a slice in condensed form. A little overly salty, too, but then again, this is America.
Cheese flavor: 9/10 - Very high concentration of cheesy paste in the middle of these things, so the taste is relatively strong. Again, it’s cheddar, but because there’s such a sharpness to it (like the tomato flavor), the overall effect is one that actually vaguely resembles pizza.
Overall: 7/10 - Bready, tomatoey, and cheesy. These guys have the three necessary components of pizza! They don’t have the chemistry quite right, but -- DAMMIT -- they’ve got heart.
Most snack brands use ingredients that have a long shelf life and taste nothing like the real thing. The authentic flavors are hard to come by, but Pizzeria Combos are as close as you'll get to biting into a slice. If you want pizza taste without any of the dough, or Italian-ness, go for them.
And if we can make a quick personal plea to pizza snack manufacturers: You know how to make things taste like tomato (granted, a very funky tomato), so why can't you make mozzarella flavors happen? We'll eat some Combos while we wait for an answer.
Adam Lapetina is a food/drink staff writer at Thrillist and will probably try a pizza with cheddar cheese just to see how it feels. Read his musings on Twitter at @adamlapetina.