Starting a risky business with food that has sticking power
Pronounced “Ann-jah-line” (his mother’s middle name and a family name), Harrell’s French Quarter restaurant is connected to the Hotel Provincial. In a prior life, the restaurant space housed the very prominent Stella!. Harrell took a risk by re-working the restaurant’s interior design and room configuration, making it slightly more casual. He also cleverly moved the front door and host stand from the building’s driveway-side entrance to a front door on the street-side, facing Chartres.
“New Orleanians are not fond of change, but redesigning Angeline’s interior and moving the door was necessary to give our own stamp to a place that had serious and notorious fine dining history,” he said. “It was also good sense because it increased our visibility, and accessibility. Believe it or not, putting the front door on the front of the building was novel.”
Angeline’s menu offers refined Southern food which is “always naturally evolving and thoughtful to customer expectations without losing my spirit.”
“We are cooking for others, so it’s about trying to achieve the balance of representing myself and what people like and want to eat,” he added. Harrell hits all marks with dishes that have carved long-term spots on his dinner menu, such as black eyed pea & collard green soup with bourbon, bacon, and a smoky pork broth, gulf shrimp & country ham with stewed butter beans, glazed sweet potatoes, kale and preserved lemon, and roasted hanger steak with pan-fried Brussels sprouts, hot water cornbread fritters, smoked oyster mayo, and house Worcestershire sauce.
Brunch is a new-ish addition to his roster and has been successful. “The Fried Chicken & Biscuits and the Crispy Boudin & Coosa Valley Grits are big deals.” Brunch service also features excellent cocktails and an enormous slice of French toast that will give you pause.