Enter and scoot past the aisles stocked with canned chiles and spicy green chips imported from Mexico, past the Virgin Mary eyeing you from her post up above the fridges, and place your order through the small window where you can see the chef flipping tortillas on the comal. Aside from a few locals darting in and out to buy cigarettes or getting food to go, you’ll have the entire place to yourself.
These aren’t your average tacos. The soft corn tortilla -- closer to the texture and thickness of naan than to a traditional taco tortilla -- gets warmed up on the comal, then stuffed with yellow rice, hot red-skinned potatoes, jalapeños, shredded queso fresco, and long strips of avocado. You can add steak or spicy chorizo, or opt for the vegetarian version where a whole boiled egg is tossed into the mass of rice and potatoes. Don’t bother ordering more than one, though; your stomach may believe you can eat at least two or three tacos like you normally do, but just one order is all you need to feel full.