Food & Drink

Everywhere You Need to Eat and Drink in NYC Right Now

Updated On 12/04/2019 at 05:44PM EST Updated On 12/04/2019 at 05:44PM EST
Anton's
Anton's | Giada Paoloni

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

Kochi | Melissa Hom

Kochi

Est. November 5, 2019 | Hell’s Kitchen

Nine rounds of Korean skewers fit for royals
The buzz: After stretches at luxury locales Per Se, Le Bernardin, and the beloved but recently shuttered Neta, chef Sungchul Shim’s first solo spot offers a more accessible opportunity to sample his excellent takes on Korean royal court cuisine.
The vibe: Relaxed elegance in an understated, intimate space that feels cozy rather than crowded. Yes, all that’s a euphemism for small, so keep your party to a minimum and book Kochi for friend dates, date dates, and solo splurges at the bar.   
The food: A $75, nine-course skewer menu inspired by Korean royal court cuisine. The tasting will change based on seasonal availability, but recent hits included bibimbap with uni, grilled mackerel, pork belly, and a corn croquette in potato milk soup with caviar. 
Pro tip: Splurge on the caviar and uni supplements. Kochi is BYOB for now, but call ahead to confirm the current policy.

More: Read our full review of Kochi here.

Anton's | Giada Paoloni

Anton’s

Est. November 11, 2019 | West Village

An Old New York throwback with staying power
The buzz: Just weeks after taking over the old Frankies 570 space, chef Nick Anderer’s Anton’s is just as popular as the erstwhile neighborhood favorite. A smidge of the new spot’s early success is owed to its predecessor: most of the design details remain unchanged and Frankies’ owners are Anderer’s silent partners. This is Anderer’s inaugural solo venture after ascending the ranks at Danny Meyer’s behemoth Union Square Hospitality Group.  
The vibe: Classic Manhattan without feeling old fashioned. Anton’s atmosphere is equal parts romantic and convivial, with vintage style, enough room to have a private conversation, and good music at a low enough volume to hear it. The dining room is equally suited to duos and groups, and the bar is an ideal place for a fictionalized 1960s-era maverick advertising executive to have a three-martini lunch and mull the duality of human nature.  
The food: Familiar, well-executed staples. The grilled pork rib chops, whole or half roast chicken, and half-a-dozen house-made pastas including the excellent lasagnette with lamb ragu are all solid options. Anton’s best cocktails are the batch-made “Ice Box” Manhattan and martini, and the subtly fruity, gin-based Pink Lady. Beer and more than 550 bottles of wine (about 20 available by the glass) are also available.

More: Read our full review of Anton’s here.

Courtesy of The HiHi Room

The HiHi Room

Est. November 12, 2019 | Cobble Hill

Court Street Grocers glows up at its first full-service restaurant
The buzz: With four Court Street Grocers locations under their belt, this is Matt Ross and Eric Finkelstein’s first full-service restaurant. Chef Walker Stern (late of the excellent and curiously short lived Battersby) helms the kitchen.  
The vibe: The HiHi Room is neighborhoody in a way that’s hard to fake. It already feels like it’s been on the block for years. By day, it has a busy but unrushed lunchonette quality. Dinner service is a tick more polished, but it’s still an easy place to spend an evening. 
The food: Snackable hush puppies, nicely charred cheeseburgers, and whitefish salad with buckwheat waffle triangles are available all day. Hand-cut spaghetti Cincinnati with a dynamically spiced duck chili is the dinner menu’s standout dish. 

More: Read our full review of The HiHi Room here.

Portale | Pat Dunford

Portale

Est. November 15, 2019 | Chelsea

Contemporary Italian cuisine from one of NYC’s most respected chefs
The buzz: Another first from a highly pedigreed chef, this is Alfred Portale’s maiden independent restaurant voyage after spending more than three decades at the perennially lauded Gotham Bar and Grill. Portale left his post as executive chef earlier this year to open this eponymous spot.
The vibe: Portale’s 100-seat dining room is just formal enough to make a statement without putting too fine a point on it. The neutrally hued space marries reclaimed wood beloved by millennials with marble finishes straight out of a boomer’s 80s-era dream apartment. It’s perfect for baby’s first expense account dinner, a double date with your significant other’s hip parents, or Thirtysomething reboot filming location. 
The food: Naturally, Portale has four negroni varieties in addition to a dozen-and-a-half wines by the glass and Italianish takes on classic cocktails. The dinner menu includes a smattering of pasta dishes like the shell-shaped lumache with short rib, bolognese bianco, black truffle, and parmigiano, and mains like branzino, duck breast, roast chicken, and steak. Its standout item is the warm foie gras tortellini appetizer finished with a shallow broth at the table. 

Nowon | Tyson Greenwood

Nowon

Est. November 25, 2019 | East Village

“Nontraditional” Korean bites in barroom environs 
The buzz: Following turns at Dale Talde’s Rice and Gold, Masaharu Morimoto’s Momosan Ramen and Sake, and his own successful pop-up Him, chef Jae Lee now has a place to call his own on East 6th Street. 
The vibe: Very much at home in the East Village, the bar takes up about a third of Nowon’s 34-seat, Edison bulb-lit space. Its interior is cooly distressed and colorful. The bathroom, in keeping with the times, is particularly photogenic. 
The food: Small plates like the shin ramyun chicken wings, wok fired jjajang clams, and spicy prawn jjamppong are meant to be shared, or you can mix a few to create your own tasting. The dry aged double cheeseburger with kimchi mayo that gained a cult following at Him is only available from 5 to 7pm. Beer, wine, and soju cocktails will be available in the coming weeks.

ALL-TIME BEST

L to R: Short rib for two, complimentary pull-apart olive bread, The Gin Cocktail, The Vodka Cocktail, gruyere fritters | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Crown Shy

Est. 2019 | Financial District

An instant classic and emerging standard for downtown dining
Located on narrow Pine Street in the somewhat sleepy-after-sundown Financial District, Crown Shy strikes an intimate, secluded chord, in spite of its soaring ceilings, theatrically lit open kitchen, and 120-sea capacity. Entering through the marble, Art Deco lobby is like arriving at a clandestine celebrity wedding where invitations go out the day of and never mention nuptials. The food and drinks, too, are fit for a celebration: punchy “Crown” cocktails are topped with regal garnishes, complimentary olive bread will give you the rare dining sensation that you’re getting away with something, the warm, rich gruyere fritters are fit for a king, and Crown Shy’s crown jewel -- the braised short rib for two -- will inspire you to book your next reservation before you’ve even signed the check. 

Wayan | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Wayan

Est. 2019 | Nolita

A new kid on the block from a culinary dynasty
Even without the family name, a visit to Cedric Vongerichten’s French-Indonesian Spring Street spot would still be worth shaking up your dining out routine. Novel cocktails like the Greater Galangal Sour (Scotch, chickpea water, galangal) and South-East Sweet Tea (bourbon, red tea, honey, smoked salt) are speedily prepared in the urban-beachy bar area. You’ll be satisfied from any seat in the house, but scoring a booth in the similarly fashioned back room is like hitting the jackpot. Start with small but hearty plates of plump shrimp satay, peekytoe crab cake, and clams, followed by larger dishes of lobster noodles, and falling-off-the-bone baby back pork ribs.

Sofreh | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Sofreh

Est. 2018 | Prospect Heights

One of last year’s best openings in the US, right here in NYC
Thrillist named this freshman effort by chef Nasim Alikhani one of the nation’s 13 best openings last year. Alikhani honed her home cooking for decades before bringing Persian fare like kofteh (beef, tarragon, rice, and split pea meatballs), braised lamb in an onion and turmeric broth, and pomegranate beef ribeye kabab to a bright, beachy northwest Brooklyn venue. [Reservations - by Open Table]

Frenchette | Courtesy of Frenchette

Frenchette

Est. 2018 | Tribeca

A neighborhood brasserie suited for special occasions -- if you can get a table
If Frenchette shot to the top of your must-go list when it opened in 2018, the good news is you have excellent taste: it shot to the top of nearly every NYC critic’s ‘Best Of’ list by the year’s end. The bad news is, if you didn’t go then, you may have to wait until the neutral-hued, understated restaurant’s lingering buzz flatlines. Plan a visit for spring, 2021 -- or, try your luck at scoring a walk-in table for a chance to try the rich liver pâté on charred bread, perfectly pink, perfectly fatty duck and accompanying frites, carefully curated wines, and novel cocktails.

Oxomoco | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Oxomoco

Est. 2018 | Greenpoint

Michelin-starred Mexican with one of the city’s best steaks
Oxomoco earned its Michelin star at lightning speed, and it only takes one visit to understand why. The grilled maitake, chicken al pastor, pork cheek carnitas, and lamb barbacoa fillings make every taco Tuesday an affair to remember, and frozen cocktails infuse the tightly packed, but relaxed, airy, space with even more levity. The steak for two cements this as one of the best restaurants in New York City. The star of 32-oz dry aged bone in ribeye is its fat, which has a silky, bone marrow-like, melt in your mouth texture.
 

Laab Ped Udon | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Ugly Baby

Est. 2017 | Carroll Gardens

Thai worth waiting for in one narrow, kaleidoscopic room
Occupying a seemingly “doomed” storefront on Smith Street in South Brooklyn, Ugly Baby appears to have broken its location’s spell. Crowds abide a no reservations policy and long waits to test the average human palate’s spice tolerance. Assume everything here will be hot: the five spice pork leg stew will be hot; the duck salad will be hot; and the southern dry eye round curry will be “brutally spicy.” Cool down with selections from the wine and beer menu.

Lillo | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Lillo

Est. 2017 | Cobble Hill

Italian home cooking in a kitchen that’s probably smaller than your own
A cafe by day, Lillo is easy to love in spite of itself. It doesn't take reservations, so aspiring guests line up outside for shots at about a dozen and-a-half seats. After a brief, unofficial BYOB period was kiboshed, it’s a dry house. There is no bathroom. But the place and its eponymous owner are so effortlessly charming that every plate of cacio e pepe, fettuccini with speck and zucchini, and whole branzino seems special.

Olmsted | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Olmsted

Est. 2016 | Prospect Heights

A rotating menu that never misses in flora-forward environs
The hottest ticket in town circa 2016, Olmsted’s popularity has barely cooled. You’re maybe 10% more likely to nab a table than you would have been three years ago -- but it can be done if you’re willing to sample the decadent duck liver mousse, perky sweet potato and uni pierogies, and bouillabaisse hot pot off-peak. Skip the basic cocktail names (pine, lavender, rosemary, apple) and scan their descriptions for the base spirit you want to sip (gin, bourbon, mezcal, and rye, respectively). [Reservations - by Open Table]

Sushi Nakazawa | Evan Sung

Sushi Nakazawa

Est. 2016 | West Village

Super-spendy sushi worth saving up for
A trip to Nakazawa might ruin you for sushi forever. One bite of the omakase menu featuring a rotating selection of sea urchin, scallops, fatty tuna, prawn, and yellowtail perched atop the platonic ideal of sushi rice will convince you you’ve been eating an inferior species of fish your whole life. Expect to pay around $500 for a party of two if you add the sake pairing to your multi-course sushi tasting experience. [Reservations - by Open Table]

L: The Lychee Cocktail; R: Kyoto Ramen | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

ROKC

Est. 2016 | Harlem

Outlandish cocktails that actually taste good, and even better ramen
The wait times at ROCK have dwindled from 2.5 hours even in freezing weather to a far more manageable 30-some-odd minutes since its 2016 opening. That’s enough time to have one drink nearby without getting blotto before your pork belly, chicken, or veggie ramen dinner. Blow that unintentional sobriety on aesthetically pleasing cocktails like the smoke (served literally smokin’), pineapple (set alight), and lychee (sipped out of an upturned lightbulb).

Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co. | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.

Est. 2014 | Greenpoint

A breath of sea air without the trip to the shore
Catch Montauk vibes without leaving the five boroughs at Greenpoint Fish & Lobster, where no fewer than six varieties of oysters bathe in ice atop a marble bar. The decor -- all non-porous, gleaming white surfaces -- is as antiseptic as you’d hope a place in a place dealing with so much raw fish would be. Sidle up to the bar and wash down those bivalves, cups of chowder, mussels, and whole steamed lobsters with cans of Narragansett and micheladas.

La Vara | La Vara

La Vara

Est. 2012 | Cobble Hill

Small plates you’ll want to share
We know, tapas are kind of a rip-off and nobody wants to share. But La Vara may be the exception to the scam. Plates of stuffed rabbit loin, chicken hearts, lamb meatballs, and suckling pig, can be a challenge to divide by a party of four, but you can always treat yourself to a solo night out and keep them all to yourself with a pitcher of sangria or a more modest glass of tempranillo. [Reservations - by Open Table]

Astoria Seafood

Est. 2012 | Long Island City

DIY catch of the day
Astoria Seafood allows would-be seamen to choose their own fishventure without committing to the sailor’s life. Expect long lines for affordable plates of fresh-as-it gets scallops, calamari, shrimp, octopus, and whole fish catch of the day, that you’ll choose from a bin and send to the kitchen to get baked, pan seared, or fried. Only the bravest will test the limits of Astoria Sea food’s BYOB policy and start sipping from plastic cups outside while they wait.

Cafe China | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Cafe China

Est. 2011 | Midtown West

Michelin-starred Chinese food worth traversing tourist central
As evidenced by the teeming crowds, Cafe China is worth a trip to Midtown -- even if you have to push past the Herald Square shoppers or Grand Central commuters to get there. The casually stylish Michelin-starred restaurant has been turning out perfect plates of ma po tofu, fiery three pepper chicken packed with chili peppers, delectable duck dishes, and ambitious cocktails since 2011 with no signs of slowing down.

Minetta Tavern | Emilie Baltz

Minetta Tavern

Est. 2009 | Greenwich Village

The best Keith McNally restaurant in a city full of 'em
Balthazar. Morandi. Augustine. Odeon. Lucky Strike. Every New Yorker has a favorite Keith McNally restaurant, and, since Schiller’s closed, this is the best one. Minetta encapsulates the McNally empire’s exclusivity and everyman appeal all under one roof. Well, maybe not everyman. Minetta’s entry level burger clocks in at $25. Its black label burger runs a cool $33. Both are delicious, and if you can tell the difference you’re probably one of the finance bros who started populating the heavy wood, black and white tile, red banquette interior more than a few years back. No matter. McNally acolites don’t mind rubbing elbows with you over the bone marrow, escargot, and burgers (labeled or otherwise) you’re likely expensing. [Reservations - by Open Table]


Irish coffee and the All American Breakfast | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Fort Defiance

Est. 2009 | Red Hook

The best Irish coffee in NYC, if not “the known world”
Lists of the best restaurants in Red Hook are a laugh riot. There are only like 10 of them. But Fort Defiance is truly the best, and it’s great for brunch in particular. Pair the bracing best Irish coffee “in the known world” with the All-American (two eggs any style -- get them scrambled -- toast, and the most delicious hash browns ever created by humans) before you switch to an Other Half so you can actually get something done over the weekend.

L to R: The Vinegar Hill Cocktail, Country Pork Chop, Halibut, Natural Wine, Little Gems | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Vinegar Hill House

Est. 2008 | Vinegar Hill

A hidden gem, 10 years after the fact
Next to nothing in New York City is off the beaten path, provided you’ve got a smartphone and access to some form of transportation, but Vinegar Hill House comes close. If you haven’t heard of Vinegar Hill, it’s the one next to Dumbo. If you haven’t heard of Dumbo, welcome to town, and this is the first stop in Brooklyn off the F train. Vinegar Hill House personifies the neighborhood, nodding at nautical design elements without veering into themes, with plenty of “reclaimed” materials and even a damn cherry tree out back. But its preciousness seems incidental rather than cloying, the food is better than good, and the one-step-less-than-convenient location will impress your out of town -- or even out of borough -- guests. Get the pork chop and a rye-based Vinegar Hill cocktail.

Cherin

Est. 2007 | East Village

Affordable sushi with an even more affordable -- and rare -- perk
This is the best cheap-ish sushi in town, and it’s BYOB. Who knows how long it takes to get even one little sushi roll named after you here (apparently 10 years is too soon), but bites of the the Owen roll (eel, “crunch,” and crab meat), Hal n Nancy roll (spicy tuna, shrimp, avocado), and Helen roll (salmon, avocado) are enough to allay any jealousy. Pair them with a cheap bottle of whatever cures what ails you and you’ll have a great lunch or dinner for a song.

Lucali

Est. 2006 | Carroll Gardens

Some of the best pizza in the US, if you can stomach the wait
“Show up before 5. Put your name on the list. Go have a drink. We’ll call you when your table is ready,” reads Lucali’s website. Surely you jest, is a reasonable reply. But even after more than a decade in operation, Lucali still draws throngs willing to congregate at nearby bars for a taste of barebones pizza with basic toppings like pepperoni, mushrooms, onions, and hot peppers. Is it good enough to merit a possible 3-plus hour wait? At least once.

Tacos El Bronco | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Tacos El Bronco

Est. 2007 | Sunset Park

Craveable tacos in a casual setting
Don’t let anybody tell you this isn’t a taco town. We’ve got oodles of options, and Tacos El Bronco is the one to beat. Pork skin, veal head, tongue, and tripe varieties, as well as your more basic options like steak, chicken, chorizo and barbacoa will only set you back a few bucks, and the enchilada, flauta, and burrito platters that sprung from the spot’s food truck origins are each feasts fit for for a king.

L: Rabbit with black olives and creamy polenta; R: Risotto with roasted scallops, corn, and thyme | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Al Di La

Est. 1998 | Park Slope

An enviable neighborhood spot worth going out of your way for
Every neighborhood has a great local treasure, and you’d be lucky to call this yours. It’s a little too pricey to be an every night affair, but it’s an ideal choice for date night, a milestone celebration, or a visit from the parents. Elegant orders of oxtail, rotating risotto, and braised rabbit betray shabby-chic, intentionally distressed interiors.

Congee Village

Est. 1996 | Lower East Side

An emporium of “gruel,” where you can skip the gruel
Congee Village is an all around good-time palace, great for groups and a solo lark alike. Some cocktails arrive hilariously neon-hued, but are drinkable nonetheless. Ironically, the congee (a “gruel of boiled rice and water”) is far from the best thing on the menu. Try it if you must, but be prepared to leave more than a few bites on the table and move onto orders of abalone, sea cucumber delicacies, relatively uncommon duck blood and goose intestine dishes, and pork, chicken, steak, shrimp, and scallop standards.

L to R: Fried anchovies, grilled octopus, grilled fish, fried baby shark | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Taverna Kyclades

Est. 1996 | Astoria

The city’s best Greek food in a neighborhood rich with competition
It’s no secret that Astoria is home to the finest Greek food in NYC, and Taverna Kyclades is the best of the best. After more than 20 years in operation, you’ll still wait for a table unless you can sneak off to Queens on your lunch break. Come by whenever you can for tender bites of grilled octopus, unforgettable swordfish kebab, the neighborhood favorite anchovies, baby shark to write home about, and a half carafe of the house wine if you plan to get back to the office -- or a full one if you don’t.

Petite Crevette

Est. 1996 | Cobble Hill

Simple seafood dishes in an authentically boho environment
Did Petite Crevette’s owner "throw" a live lobster at a patron who’d complained about his order’s freshness? Kind of!? Hit an ATM (it’s cash only: boo) and a wine shop (it’s BYOB: yay!) and go anyway, as the excellent, eclectically decorated (rather than designed) little eatery does not seem to have endured (enjoyed?) such a dramatic display in the intervening decade. Order the expertly prepared whole fish, scallops, soft shell crab (when it’s in season), or even the lobster cioppino -- if you dare.

Gramercy Tavern | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Gramercy Tavern

Est. 1994 | Gramercy

A Manhattan classic where every seat in the house feels like the best
Let’s keep Gramercy Tavern’s best table a secret, because every seat in this Manhattan house is a good one. Even at the bar. Cop-a-squat and order à la carte items like the grilled sea bass, duck meatballs, and $32 tavern burger, or settle in for the tasting menu for some of the best beef tartare, sea bream, roasted scallops, pork belly, and lamb loin you’ve ever had. And whether your preferred spirit is bourbon, gin, or that other clear one, you can trust the pours from Gramercy’s confident bar. [Reservations - by Open Table]

Raoul's | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Raoul’s

Est. 1975 | Soho

One of those bells that always rings
A visit to Raul’s is akin to “a trip to the moon on gossamer wings” -- transporting you to a time and place that may have only existed in a nostalgia-fueled dream. It’s a glimpse of what Soho once was, could have been, and maybe never was, via oysters, oxtail consommé, chicken the way it was meant to be roasted, and wine bottle recommendations you can trust. [Reservations - by Open Table]

Sylvia’s

Est. 1962 | Harlem

Southern comfort food with specials every day of the week
A classic since 1962, Sylvia’s serves the best corned beef and eggs, southern fried chicken and waffles, fried catfish, shrimp, and grits in any borough. Mondays bring stewed chicken and dumplings, Tuesday and Wednesdays are replete with meatloaf and oxtails, Thursdays deliver turkey wings and cornbread dressing, and weekends are rich with chitterlings. Treat yourself to a slice of sweet potato pie any, or every, day of the week. [Reservations - by Open Table]

Veselka | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Veselka

Est. 1954 | East Village

Better late-night bites than your drunk self probably deserves
Nobody’s here to judge, but if you’re out in the East Village past 3am here’s a bit of wisdom: Nothing very good happens after 2:45; there are not secret parties raging without you; and a little comfort food will probably do you some good. Gird yourself against tomorrow’s hangover with a pierogi smorgasbord, latkes, and borscht. And maybe stick to water, chief.

Peter Pan Donuts | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Peter Pan Donuts

Est. 1953 | Greenpoint

Any way you spell it, these donuts are straight out of the old world
The smell of sweets, the caffeine kick, and the powdered sugar that’s likely to stick to your nose and eyelashes are all in the air at this old-school doughnut shop. Peter Pan’s puffy delights in every variety known to man somehow still clock in at under two-bucks each, the coffee is as strong as it is cheap, and the service is as quick as you need it to be in order to catch the G train back to wherever you came from.

21 Club | Courtesy of 21 Club

21 Club

Est. 1929 | Tribeca

The ur-speakeasy in a city full of imitators
A proto-speakeasy from a time when alcohol was actually illegal, 21 had a lot of lives before it settled into its present home on West 52nd Street 90 years ago. It bounced around a couple of locations downtown and into one elsewhere on the west side all before prohibition was even repealed. The one-time super cool gin joint turned stuffy mid-century, but loosened up again in recent years, all while retaining its special occasion, Old New York vibe. Famously guarded by the jockey figurines poised outside, just try cutting off the hooch here today. [Reservations - by Open Table]

Defonte’s

Est. 1922 | Staten Island

Sandwiches your father-in-law will love
My father in law saw this nearly century old mainstay on the Food Network and the family keeps promising we’ll go next time they’re in town from Philly. Sorry, Big Tom. Soon, we’ll order the Vinny D (grilled Italian sausage, broccoli rabe, grated parm and ricotta), the Italian stallion (prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, fried eggplant, roasted peppers), and the Nicky special (ham, capiolia, salami, provolone, and fried eggplant). And we won’t even compromise and go to the slightly more convenient Brooklyn location instead.  

Bamonte’s

Est. 1900 | Williamsburg

Italian favorites from the wayback machine
This classic red-sauce joint predates Williamsburg as we know it. The cozy, legitimately unpretentious bar up front is worth visiting even outside of a throwback Italian dinner, and the large dining room looks like it was designed by a '50s-era teenager shooting for elegance: bedazzled chandeliers bathe the space in light, paintings of dubious origin hang beside dramatically draped windows, and white tablecloths dare you tangle with family-style plates of chicken parm, veal marsala, and spaghetti and meatballs.

Katz's | Cole Saladino/Thrillist

Katz’s

Est. 1888 | Lower East Side

A New York classic with star quality
Katz’s isn’t exactly the Empire State Building of NYC restaurants. Maybe it’s more like the Brooklyn Bridge: an iconic tourist magnet that also benefits locals. The schtick here -- they track towering, 30-day cured corned beef, pastrami, brisket sandwiches, and anything else you order on a paper ticket that you must present to exit -- has probably outlived its usefulness, but you try changing once you’re 130 years old.