Best for Salerno-style pies: Zero Otto Nove
The Neapolitan craze never really got this far uptown, but Bronxites didn’t seem to mind. Not with the crazy popular Zero Otto Nove (089), which has expanded to Manhattan and Westchester. The appetizers at this cozy, cavernous trattoria from Roberto Paciullo are quite good, but it’s the pizza you're here for. The star of these Salerno-style pies (Neapolitan-esque, minus the wet center) are the toppings, which are often creative (butternut squash puree) and almost always delicious (local smoked mozzarella.)
Pizza evangelists consider the plain slice to be the standard by which all pizzerias should be judged. Gourmet pizza aficionados know this is the false truth of narrow-minded fools. Unsurprisingly, the plain here does not inspire, but once you get into toppings territory, it’s game over. Moist, lemony chicken cutlet with fresh tomato is a winner, as is the rich shrimp scampi. While most gourmet slices can’t handle their heft, this pizza’s thick (but not overly bread-y) crust provides support for scarfing.
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Chris Crowley is a freelance journalist with an overzealous appetite. His work has appeared on Grub Street, Serious Eats (where he wrote a column about the Bronx’s restaurants for over two years), Punch, Narratively, and more. Follow him on Twitter.