Served on a massive plate, the kidneys come sliced up like button mushrooms. They’re seasoned, of course, with the ubiquitous tandem of cumin and dried chilies, which lends a characteristic earthy, spicy, warming presence to the dish while never overwhelming you.
These are kidneys that taste like kidneys ought to: gamey, a little bitter, and iron-y. They’re fried just right, so they’re crispy but not greasy and the offal’s flavor is not lost to the peanut oil. There’s some wilted cilantro, stems and all, which adds a nice touch of peppery greenery, but, let’s be honest, you’re here for the organ meat.
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Chris Crowley is a journalist with an overzealous appetite. He’s an editor at Grub Street, and his work has appeared on Serious Eats (where he wrote a column about the Bronx’s restaurants for over two years), Punch, Narratively, and more. Follow him on Twitter.