Acquired Taste: Live Octopus With Timothy DeLaGhetto and Trevor Wallace
Opened: August 6, 2019
The amuse-bouche: An acclaimed West Coast chef’s California cuisine takes you on a tour of the state in five (or more!) regionally-inspired courses.
The food: The nightly prix-fixe recently included Arctic char with roe, fermented posole with clams, and uni. Expect the menu to change based on daily and seasonal availability.
The space: An intimate chef’s counter that still feels spacious in one airy, industrial-cool room.
When to go: When you’re celebrating something extra-special and need to lighten your wallet
The check: $$$$
Even on opening day late last this past summer, it was clear that chef Russell Jackson’s new NYC restaurant was already an event dining destination. Reverence's 18-seat chef’s counter is reservations only, and guests must book online, choose a five-course protein or non-protein based tasting, and pay upon booking ($98). An expertly calibrated beverage pairing that recently included an infused vodka aperitif, two white wines, a sake, a rosé, a red, and a dessert wine can be added in advance or upon arrival ($89). A non-alcoholic pairing is also available for the same price.
If paying $488.63 (including tax and a service charge) in advance of dinner and drinks for two that, due to demand, may be weeks away, remember that you probably pre-pay for most of your experiences already. “Think of it like a movie or sporting events ticket,” Reverence’s website reads. The place isn’t lining up hoops for you to jump through for the sake of acrobatics: it’s elevating the act of going to dinner.
Reverence’s sleek space is open and lofty, with soaring ceilings and an air of excitement. Every seat in the house has a view of the constant action in the exposed kitchen. It’s the kind of scene you’d want to hashtag, but photography is prohibited. So how will you remember courses like the corn chowder with a wisp of smoked Arctic char that practically melts in your mouth, the texturally dynamic fermented posole with clams, uni that, to use a phrase attributed to the chef, is like kissing a mermaid, even more Arctic char dressed up with vibrant roe, beautifully plated chicken with frisee, and a nectarine tart with crème fraîche and rich caramel? You’ll just have to commit to truly tasting them.
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