Food & Drink

Smoked meats in SoHo

Further bolstering the culinary offerings in Hudson Square (City Winery, Koi SoHo, 508 GastroBrewery...), this rich red wood- and chandelier-laden urban smokehouse has a former Jean Georges- and Nobu-er at the helm (those guys really areeverywhere...), and looks like it could be the study of a man whose interests include vintage clocks and heavily smoked meat.The dining room is partitioned off from the bar area, but is just as draped in that red wood. No matter where you sit, even without asking, you're going to be plied with garlic ciabatta featuring whipped blue cheese.Most of the dishes are cooked in their custom-made smoker with the titular wood, and feature fresh market ingredients.Yeah, this is bacon soup, and it's reminiscent of eating a meaty ramen without any noodles. And it's bacon soup.In addition to dry-aged double cheeseburgers topped with "bacon breadcrumbs", and seared duck with crispy sweet bread, you know they've got racks on racks. The ribs are cherrywood-smoked (duh!), glazed with sweet chili, and served with apple-celery slaw.The swimmers include this bounty of market seafood (the shrimp was alive in the kitchen not too long ago) with abalone broth and saffron toast.The cocktail list features this brandy-based sangria, plus The Cherrywood with bourbon that's been muddled with smoked orange and cherries -- enough of which should make any man actually interested in what the guy next to him at the bar is saying.