Famed restaurateur Gabriel Stulman’s latest venture is a gracious second act for the beloved Great Jones Cafe, which occupied The Jones’ Noho space from 1983-2018. If you’ve heard anything about the new place, you’ve heard that Stulman has kept the restaurant’s familiar bright orange facade and sidewalk-facing Elvis bust, and that there’s a filet o’ fish on the menu. Like the fast food staple, The Jones’ fried fish sandwich is topped with American cheese and tartar sauce, but this take is about twice the size of its assembly line kin, fresh, flaky, and more reminiscent of Montauk than the golden arches.
Manila clams hark to the seaside, too -- their perky broth is best enjoyed hot with the accompanying baguette before you dig into the generous heap of shellfish. Menu items also include a refreshing salmon crudo with avocado in a tomatillo broth, spaghetti studded with sardines, and cured anchovies. Chopped steak under a blanket of raclette, a muffaletta with pungent olive spread, and standard breakfast fare will satiate the seafood-averse.
Birria + Ramen = Birriamen
The Jones recently expanded its hours through dinner, when plenty of selections from lunch are joined by veal tongue with chanterelles, black bass, and a pork milanese. Its new beverage program features a tidy cocktail list of four tipples, like the Secret of the Unicorn (spoiler: it’s gin and ginger mint soda), and the Velvet Jones (blanco tequila, sherry, falernum, lime). A robust wine list includes dozens of bottles of red, white, rosé, sparkling, and skin contact wines, with a smattering also available by the glass.
The space’s bright, beachy interior seats a few dozen, and dinner reservations are accepted for parties of four or more from Tuesday through Saturday.
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