The 2014 'best pasta' bar has officially been set

One of the most anticipated (and slightly delayed) openings of the year is finally... open. All'onda is a bi-level, Venetian beauty from Chris Cannon and Chef Chris Jaeckle (formerly of Ai Fiori and Morimoto), who're doing seafood-centric, Italian cuisine inspired by the trade routes that traveled through the sinking city.

All'onda - Italian Restaurant NYC

First, get comfortable in one of the glowing booths on the second floor.

All'onda - Italian Restaurant NYC

Next, pick a pasta... any pasta. This one, with aged-duck ragu, Treviso, and just a touch of chocolate? It's really good. And has CHOCOLATE IN IT.

All'onda - Italian Restaurant NYC

Another standout is the bucatini -- it's their take on carbonara, but with smoked uni replacing the guanciale, and spicy breadcrumbs adding texture/mmm-iness.

All'onda - Italian Restaurant NYC

If they're out of pasta (this could happen, it's that good), go with the guinea hen, which is "more interesting than chicken" (suck it, chicken) and served with sweet parsnips, foie gras, and an umami-packed seaweed that's used to make dashi stock.

All'onda - Italian Restaurant NYC
All Photos: Andrew Zimmer

And don't skip the drinks, you drink-skipper, you. They've got a great wine list and a bunch of top-notch cocktails, including the Old Sal, which -- instead of wearing sweats and sitting in a lawn chair on the sidewalk -- is actually a bitters-heavy drink with rye, rosemary-infused Cocchi Americano, and Cynar. It's "right in between a Negroni and a Manhattan".