Food & Drink

Novo

Opening a restaurant's rough: sometimes your chef gets busted for possession, and sometimes the Liquor Board screws you on your license. Novo's been through both, but as of two nights ago they're rolling, thanks to reasonable sentencing and our favorite legal loophole: the BYOB policy. Novo calls their cuisine "Fonda Latina", which we'd hoped meant "one who hooks up with Latinas". Nevertheless, the pork loin's loin-matic, the chorizo's salty and great, and the tallarines (noodle dishes) are consistently surprising -- particularly if you didn't know Latin noodles existed.BYO-wise, for now you can bring in whatever you want. If you're looking for something stronger than beer/wine, Novo is mixing easily spikeable mocktails -- tropical fruit bebidas they'll soon infuse with hooch, but right are now served up as virginal as we suspect Clay Aiken is. As a bonus, the banquettes come with drawers built in behind your feet; they're probably not intended for excess rum storage, but they're not not intended for it. Novo says their liquor license should be coming by the 13th, so get on with it: a BYO's an elusive butterfly, worth chasing until it kills you.