It turns out what we think of as whole grain isn’t completely whole. Roller mills separate the various parts of the grain and when you buy whole wheat flour what you’re buying are those parts put back together. A few Bay Area advocates, like award-winning baker Craig Ponsford and Oliveto owner Bob Klein, have argued that doesn’t preserve many of the benefits of the original whole grain and that we don’t really know what’s in our recomposed whole wheat flour. Now, they say, is time for grains to have their own revolution. No, this actually isn’t as at-odds with the gluten-free trends as it seems. When the parts are put back together gluten is often added and many who have trouble with gluten don’t with whole-milled grains.
Ponsford, Klein, and others have started to push whole-milled, 100% whole grain flour in their breads and pastas. Community Grains, founded by Klein, has attracted other notable Bay Area foodies, like Chad Robertson of Tartine. It could be the next big thing to come out of the Bay.