Food & Drink

The 12 Most Important Restaurants in Oakland Right Now

Published On 02/24/2015 Published On 02/24/2015

While there are a lot of things you definitely don't know about Oakland (there's an annual Fairyland for Grownups????), one thing you kind of, sort of do know is that the Sunny Side of the Bay's restaurant scene is on ghost-chili-peppers-aggressively-rubbed-in-your-eyes fire right now.

From Michelin-starred Commis, to house-made-donut-starred Hopscotch, these are the 12 must-eat-at-right-now Oakland restaurants.

Andy Murdock/Thrillist

FuseBOX

West Oakland
FuseBOX is 1) a Korean food-fluenced restaurant that can’t be described without the scary word "fusion", 2) in a neighborhood that is otherwise filled with industrial warehouses and people finding ways to kill time until the next Burning Man, and 3) small, has almost no signage, and feels like you might show up one day to find it has suddenly turned into an auto body shop. So maybe get there quick (?) and start diving into the spicy Korean Fried Chicken (KFC), mushroom-y saimin noodles, and homemade kimchi that'll make a fan out of even the most hardened kimchi haters.

Hopscotch

Hopscotch

Uptown
Uptown, Uptown, Uptown. It seems like this once ignored neighborhood gets all of the attention these days, and why not? It’s got a handy BART stop, a tight cluster of some of Oakland’s best new bars and restaurants, and the beautifully restored Fox Theater. Hopscotch is a standout among the Uptown growth, a tiny little diner with one of Oakland’s most delightfully unusual menus (think creative, Japanese-tinged seasonal American cuisine). Oh, and did we mention the homemade donuts and custard cream? Yeah, those.

Flickr/Ernesto Andrade

Wood Tavern

Rockridge
Date night in North Oakland? It’s hard to do better than Wood Tavern. The always perfect pork chop and house burger are staples on the menu, but the rotating pastas and gnocchi aren't far from joining them in the staples factory. Go at lunch for a surprisingly great hot pastrami on a baguette (no, really, it works) and if you’re having trouble scoring a reservation, seats at the bar are reserved for walk-ins -- the bar gets a little tight, but if you enjoy a little bartender banter with your meal, they’re the best seats in the house.

Flickr/John Joh

Haven

Jack London Square
Chef Daniel Patterson got his Michelin stars at the super-refined Coi in San Francisco, but he's putting those stars to work in Oakland (where he also lives). After a few years of finding its groove among Jack London Square’s rapidly changing and improving restaurant scene, Haven has has earned its seat at the adults' table with food that’s both familiar and inventive, all of which you've had before... and yet you haven’t. Even the burger gets special treatment with aged beef, scallion aioli, and a homemade, seeded bun.
 

Banh Mi Ba Le

San Antonio
Because you shouldn't need to cost four-$$$$ to make a best restaurants in Oakland list, Ba Le totally doesn't, and... does! Armed with perfect bread, generous heaps of pickled veg and jalapeño, and higher quality meats than you’ll find in other shops, Ba Le has all the classic options, plus about 20 others to keep banh mi fans sampling for years to come. Eel banh mi? Why not? Vietnamese meatball and egg? Most definitely.

Flickr/T.Tseng

Commis

Piedmont Avenue
Oakland’s first (but almost definitely not last) Michelin-starred restaurant, Chef James Syhabout’s experimental Commis is the kind of place your oyster might arrive cushioned in a cloud of briny sea foam atop tumbled beach rocks, or your slow-poached egg yolk in a smoky white bowl that resembles an oversized egg white. It’s art, but it’s damn tasty art.
 

Hapuku Fish Shop

Rockridge
Big credit goes to Bakesale Betty’s fried chicken sandwich for putting Oakland solidly on the sandwich map of the US. But while everyone else is lined up down the street, head over to Rockridge for Oakland’s best-kept, no-wait secret sandwich at Hapuku Fish Shop in Rockridge’s Market Hall. Disguised as a mere fish counter, Hapuku will also fry up the catch of the day (you usually get a choice of two or three fish), with a cabbage and carrot slaw on a fresh roll and some of the crispiest fries you’ll find anywhere. If you manage to get beyond the sandwich and fries (good luck with that), there’s fish and chips, soups, ceviche, and oysters on the half shell on Saturdays.

Chop Bar

Chop Bar

Produce District
Chop Bar somehow manages to capture the best sides of Oakland effortlessly: it’s surprising, it’s homey, it’s gutsy, the crowd is diverse, and the restaurant is on trend without shoving it in your face. Dinners at Chop Bar are always bustling -- particularly on warm nights when you can take advantage of the indoor-outdoor front porch -- and always new and different, as the menu changes nightly (save the oxtail poutine, thank God). Watch for special events like the occasional not-to-be-missed pig roasts.

Pizzaiolo

Pizzaiolo

Temescal
Chef and Chez Panisse alum Charlie Hallowell has been expanding his popular Oakland culinary empire over the past decade with Boot & Shoe Service and the recent Penrose on Grand Ave, but if you have to choose one, his flagship Pizzaiolo is still the place to head for some of the most exciting food in Oakland. With perfect wood-fired pizzas, handmade pastas that often outshine everything else, great cocktails (homemade tonic!), and a breezy casual atmosphere, this place serves up big plates of happy at fair prices. On warm nights, eating on the expansive back patio is sublime, and the outdoor movie nights draw crowds for food and films throughout the summer.
 

Swan's Market

Old Oakland
Cop-out alert: Old Oakland’s Swan's Market is actually MULTIPLE destination-worthy restaurants in one. It’s what a food court should be but never is -- it’s more of a food incubator. Cosecha got things started, serving up bright and innovative Mexican fare that shines even among Oakland’s many great Mexican restaurants, both old and new. Popular izakaya restaurant B-Dama recently moved from Piedmont Ave and brought with it homey Japanese food. And then there’s The Cook and Her Farmer, Hen House, Taylor’s Sausages, Miss Ollie’s, Rosamunde Sausage Grill, and probably more on the way.

Flickr/Quinn Dombrowski

Café Colucci

North Oakland
There's no “Little Ethiopia” in Oakland per se, but the stretch of Telegraph from Temescal up to the Berkeley border seems to feature a different Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurant every other block. Cafe Colucci is the charmer of the lot, with fresh, vibrant flavors and an array of unique dishes served up with honey wine and spiced coffee. Ever wanted to try Ethiopian raw beef with spiced butter? This is the place to do it. Bonus: your vegetarian friends will love this place. Less bonus: you have vegetarian friends. Oh, and there's an attached shop where you can buy all the ingredients to make the food at home -- and if you don’t know your injera from your teff, chef and cookbook author Fetlework Tefferi is happy to share her secrets through cooking classes, which you can book online.

Beauty's Bagel Shop

Beauty's Bagel Shop

North Oakland
Let’s be honest: when it comes to bagels, the Bay Area is behind the curve. One trip to New York or Montreal is enough to make you give up on West Coast bagels. But don't! Or at least, not until you've given Beauty’s a fair doughy shake. Montreal-style bagels are finished in a wood-fired oven here, attracting a long line of beards and plaids basically every weekend. Totally worth the wait though: the hot bagels are fantastic, the smoked trout salad is addictive, the fried chicken bagel sandwich with beet slaw should be a controlled substance, and -- these are fightin’ words -- the rugelach is better than your mom’s.

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Andy Murdock is an East Bay native and travel writer. He firmly believes that the churro will be the next cupcake, and is helping to make this come true by planting the word churro in his author bios. Tweet about churros to @andy_murdock to show your support.

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1. FuseBOX 2311 A Magnolia, Oakland, CA 94607 (Oakland)

FuseBOX is a Korean-American restaurant in West Oakland that serves truly fusion dishes like spicy chicken wings deep-fried in rice flour batter, bacon mochi, grilled pork belly, and house-made tofu and kimchi. Located in a nondescript industrial space and surrounded by warehouses, the place feels secret, helped by the fact that there's almost no signage.

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2. Hopscotch Restaurant & Bar 1915 San Pablo Ave, Oakland, CA 94612 (Oakland)

An upscale diner serving Japanese-American fusion cuisine, Hopscotch is a standout restaurant in Uptown Oakland. You could order anything and be totally satisfied, but the perfectly crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside buttermilk fried chicken is one of the best dishes on the menu, especially when paired with a sweet & smoke Maple Old Fashioned. Did we mention the delightfully unusual menu includes homemade donuts and custard cream?

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3. Wood Tavern 6317 College Ave, Oakland, CA 94618 (Oakland)

North Oakland's Wood Tavern is a rustic, upscale American restaurant that might be the best date spot in the neighborhood. The menu features classics like grilled pork chop with pancetta, a burger with all the fixin's, and rotating pastas and gnocchi. Seats at the bar are reserved for walk-ins, so if you're having trouble securing a reservation, they're the best seats in the house.

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4. Haven 44 Webster St, Oakland, CA 94607 (Oakland)

Coi's Daniel Patterson is bringing Michelin-worthy cuisine to Jack London Square with Haven, a Californian restaurant that found its groove with dishes that are both familiar and totally new. Take the aged beef burger with scallion aioli, or the confit chicken wings with harissa yogurt and pickled jalapeño. Food is served à la carte in the lounge area and prix-fixe in the dining room.

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5. Banh Mi Ba Le 1909 International Blvd, Oakland, CA 94606 (Oakland)

Armed with crusty bread, generous heaps of pickled vegetables and jalapeño, and higher quality meats than you’ll find in other shops, Ba Le has all the classic options, plus about 20 others to keep banh mi fans sampling for years to come. Eel banh mi? Why not? Vietnamese meatball and egg? Most definitely. And with every sandwich priced at under $5, this might just be the best lunch deal in the Bay Area.

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6. Hapuku Fish Shop 5655 College Ave, Oakland, CA 94618 (Oakland)

The expert fishmongers at this fish counter in Rockridge's Market Hall will clean, shuck, and peel anything you order. Aside from a seafood stand, Hapuku is also Oakland's best-kept, no-wait secret sandwich shop. They'll fry up the catch of the day (there are usually two to three options), sandwich it on a fresh roll with tartar sauce and cabbage and carrot slaw, and serve it with a side of crispy fries. Hapuku also sells fish and chips, soups, ceviche, and oysters on the half shell.

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7. Commis 3859 Piedmont Ave, Oakland, CA 94611 (Oakland)

This Oakland eatery is the only fine dining spot in the East Bay to boast a Michelin star (let alone the two that it has). Chef James Syhabout helped open Coi with Daniel Patterson and opened Hawker Fare, and you’ll see those Asian influences come through in dishes like Dungeness crab with coral and dried pickled celeriac or a simple radish with charred mustard broth and speck ham. The eight-course tasting menu is $125, while the pairing menu will cost you an extra $75.

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8. Chop Bar 247 4th St, Oakland, CA 94607 (Oakland)

Chop Bar represents the best of Oakland: it's homey and funky, the crowd is diverse, and the food and drink are all local. No matter when you go, the all-day eatery on Jack London Square is bustling, particularly when you can take advantage of the indoor-outdoor front patio. The menu is always changing, but expect a mix of comfort foods like oxtail poutine, meatloaf, mac & cheese, and risotto. It's also one of the few places that serves wine (all from California, of course) on tap.

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9. Pizzaiolo 5008 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609 (Oakland)

Chez Panisse alum Charlie Hallowell's Pizzaiolo serves some of the most exciting food in Oakland and the best pizza in the country. The Telegraph Ave spot keeps its wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas simple. A spot-on dinner includes rapini and house-made sausage pizza, rigatoni with pork ragu, and a house-made tonic cocktail. The huge back patio is particularly popular during summer movie nights.

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10. Swan's Market 538 9th St, Oakland, CA 94607 (Oakland)

For over 60 years, Old Oakland’s Swan's Market was a major shopping destination for the East Bay and, after a renovation in 2000, it was revamped into a mixture of apartments, small businesses, and multiple destination-worthy restaurants, the latter of which make it exactly what a food court should be: there are endless options like bright and innovative Mexican fare at Cosecha Cafe, homey Japanese izakaya at B-Dama, sausages from Rosamunde and Taylor’s and so much more.

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11. Café Colucci 6427 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609 (Oakland)

There's no “Little Ethiopia” in Oakland per se, but the stretch of Telegraph from Temescal up to the Berkeley border seems to feature a different Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurant every other block. Cafe Colucci is the charmer of the lot, with fresh, vibrant flavors and an array of unique dishes served up with honey wine and spiced coffee. Ever wanted to try Ethiopian raw beef with spiced butter? This is the place to do it. Oh, and there's an attached shop where you can buy all the ingredients to make the food at home -- and if you don’t know your injera from your teff, chef and cookbook author Fetlework Tefferi is happy to share her secrets through cooking classes, which you can book online.

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12. Beauty's Bagel Shop 3838 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609

Montreal-style bagels are hand-rolled, boiled in honey water, and served hot right out of the wood-burning oven. Get your Montreal-style bagel-n-schmear breakfast right here in Cali!

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