Andrés has been outspoken on hunger and food policy for years through his nonprofit, World Central Kitchen. Now he’s raising his voice in the sphere of politics. After taking a stand against Donald Trump’s disparaging remarks about Mexicans in 2015 by pulling out of the Trump Hotel in DC, Andrés began advocating on behalf of immigrants. He hit the campaign trail in Miami for Hillary Clinton, and he sounded off to Eater about the importance of immigrants in America.
He’s still in litigation with Trump over the hotel restaurant contract, but that hasn’t stopped Andrés from reaching new heights with ThinkFoodGroup. This October, he was awarded two Michelin stars for Minibar, and four of his concepts earned spots on the Bib Gourmand list: China Chilcano, Jaleo, Oyamel, and Zaytinya. He also opened a seafood-focused concept, Fish by José Andrés, in the DMV’s newest casino.
What do you see as this year’s biggest changes or developments in DC’s food scene?
José Andrés: I think the big change is the continuous flow of chefs. Some that were here before and they left and they came back. Some that were here and they left the restaurant or chef that they were working under and they are opening their own. Or other big name chefs that are saying they're moving in, like Nobu and others. So I think the biggest thing is how much this city has attracted so many chefs of different levels. I think DC is doing very well. Every restaurant is like a startup. Some of the restaurants can one day become a chain, and I think Washington, DC has developed this kind of startup mode where anybody can own a small business and everybody can dream that one day they could conquer the world with some of those concepts.
Tell us about your favorite dish or food trend from 2016, and why you loved it.
Andrés: It’s very funny when I hear that olive oil is the new trend, and I’ve been using it and everybody’s been using it for 25 years. Or when someone says the tradition of cocktails are coming back, when actually they never left us. I read so many things about trends and things that to me it’s kind of funny. So for me, the biggest trend is keep doing things as good as you can every day. This is the way it’s always been, the way it is, and the way it will be. So for me, the biggest trend is that in my life, I don’t follow trends.
What excites you most about DC’s food scene right now?
Andrés: I think the most exciting is that we have a lot of small concepts. They’re concepts that one day hope to be bigger. They’re creative. Even some of the food trucks. Some of these concepts one day could be making it mainstream, and making it bigger into America. So they’re concepts that while they are one, the people are opening them with the idea of one day to have multiples. That’s to me very exciting about DC. The other exciting thing is the neighborhoods. It seems that forever new neighborhoods are being added to the map of Washington, DC, the offerings of the different places, and I think this is very unique. And number three, it seems Michelin coming to town is giving this city the love that it deserves. That somebody like Michelin is coming, that’s a good love to have.
Given your involvement with the presidential election this year, it’s safe to say that chefs can have an influential role in political and cultural discourse. Why do you think it’s important, as a chef, to embrace that role?
Andrés: I’m just one more citizen. In this election, I got involved because I am an immigrant, a new American. A success of my company is having many Americans, but also many immigrants working with me. I am who I am thanks to all of them, and to me to feel that they have been under attack, was an opportunity to speak up. Without insulting or saying anything wrong about anybody, but saying that we cannot be allowing anybody, no matter who you are, to be taken down. So I don’t think it’s because we are chefs. It’s because we are citizens.
But then the same way I’m telling you this, the election is over, the votes talked and we chose the president that the majority of the electoral votes decided. That’s the new leader, and whether we like it or not, that’s who we need to be supporting. Because again, America has always been bigger than any one man. America was created precisely on the premise that we’ll be led by a man, but a man will not necessarily impose on America. Every American is represented by their representatives, by the senators, and that has a super huge power in how we should be. We all rally behind the flag. We all rally behind the constitution. Every citizen has the power to work hard to make sure that America continues to be the amazing country we all know it is.
What are you looking forward to in 2017, and what do you think the new year has in store for the DC food scene as a whole?
Andrés: Every year that we have an incoming president with an incoming congress, the city is very alive. It’s a lot of new people that sometimes have never been in DC, and unfortunately we have people that leave, people that come. Neighborhoods are refilled with new blood, new hope, new optimism. I’ve seen already, three, four times, I’ve seen many congresses come in and come out. I’ve seen already two, three presidents coming in and come out and I’ve seen already two, three inaugurations. And it’s always super exciting. This election cycle, everybody will agree, has been slightly out-of-the-norm, but at the end we’ll all welcome the incoming administration and we’ll all keep making the Washington metropolitan area one of the most exciting cities in the world.