After decades of laid-back success, going upscale can be tricky -- for example, Traci Lords' career never quite recovered from her decision to act with her clothes on. Successfully embarking on a refined new course, India West, now open. The year-in-the-making counterpart to the hyper-authentic, 28-year-old Richardson standby Kebab N Kurry, India West is a far more elaborate operation: a churrascaria-style patio & facade fronting white-table-cloth'd fancy dining rooms, a bar lit by giant illuminated circles, and a red-lit lounge sporting leather chairs and a handsome fireplace -- in other words, a far cry from your local Delhi. The menu's loaded with familiar yet gourmet-tweaked dishes, including pakoras (fried meat/veggie fritters), yogurt/spice/herb-marinated cornish hen, similarly rubbed lamb chops, and six chicken/lamb/beef/shrimp curries like tomato-cream masala, onion/bell pepper kadhai, and spicy potato vindaloo, also England's theme song for the '98 World Cup (though given France's victory, "You Butter, You Bet" would've been more appropriate). The bar slings an eclectic 14-beer selection (from Kingfisher to Chimay), 100+ wines/champagnes from the $20s (Los Cardos, Geyser Peak) to the hundreds (Roederer Cristal), a solid single-malt lineup, and in-development sig cocktails, starting with the Grey Goose/cranberry juice/ginger liqueur "Cherry Ginger Blossom", which may sound girly, but who didn't love Blossom? Like the original Kebab, India West also serves an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet, though this one's buttressed by another churrascaria influence: a salad bar, which much like Miss Lords' current trajectory, will leave you nostalgic for the meat.