Food & Drink

Gourmet gyros in the FiDi

It takes vision to turn something familiar into something grand, like when the Mitchell Brothers turned the sleazy, grimy, prostitution-riddled strip club scene upside down, with some sweet jungle murals, and, er, columns and stuff. Doin' it with the FiDi's gyro scene, Petrino.Open on a stretch of Kearny, where grab-and-go pita wraps and consequently yogurt stained button-downs abound, Petrino's a bi-level, full service Mediterranean resto that's a cut above the take-out joints, with vaulted ceilings, exposed brick, open kitchen, and most importantly, its bangin' menu composed of waaay more than just shaved meat. Sorry. OK, focus: while fresh starters range from mussels stuffed with rice, pine nuts, and currants, to saganaki (fried Asiago cheese with browned butter), you can still get your gyro (chicken or lamb/beef), or mix it up with a tartar-drizzled wrap stuffed with salmon or swordfish, if you can pay attention long enough, you'll detect a faint flying bus finish. Entree-wise, affordable action includes traditional beef Moussaka with bechamel-tomato cream, grilled jumbo prawn and scallop skewers with lemongrass sauce, the grilled ribeye cooked in brandy n' green peppercorns, and, naturally, the mashed potato-flanked chicken parm, like your mom used to make you, before she got into yoga and not loving you or America.To wash it all down, there's a 40 bottle deep list of world vinos and eight bottled beers including Efis Turkish pilsner and an Aris Greek lager, who swears it only came to town for the columns.