Kolache's cousin comes to town

Central TX's ethnic pastry scene's always had plenty of Czechs, but few balances, at least until Hill Country Pierogi: a rope-lit 11th St trailer using Purple Bean Cafe's flora-rich outdoors to disseminate deep-fried Polish potato dumplings, stuffed with local Smokey Denmark meats by a couple who recently escaped from corporate New York, where they apparently had a very Donald un-Pleasence experience.

Five bones scores a meal-sized pair of XL's in styles like the cracked-black-peppercorn Bacon (w/ caramelized onion & cheddar, topped w/ sour cream & bacon crumble), the Tex Mex (Spanish chorizo, black beans, sauteed onion w/ chipotle sour cream & jalapenos), and the sour cream-/toasted walnut-topped Veggie: sauteed mushrooms, steamed spinach, and Gorgonzola -- or, the frozen terror-face one gets when one is assigned to read Zola.

They're also doing sliders on sweet Hawaiian rolls (something notably absent on Sliders...and Five-O), where red cabbage/shredded carrots/mango pepper sauce garnish varieties like the Kielbasa (smoked & grilled jalapeno sausage, TX sweet jalapeno mustard) and the Spanish Chorizo with raspberry vinegar mustard, roasted garlic, and a sherry brown sugar glaze that will keep Steve Perry around long after his love quits holding on.

Giving you your just-desserts: sweet 'rogis in Blueberry or Apple Pie flavors, as well as a cookie/brownie hybrid smothered in dulce de leche, mini marshmallows, powdered sugar, and whipped Mascarpone, called the 420 -- a number often associated with ruined balance, so Czech yourself before you wreck yourself.