Buffalo steak & mozz-stuffed meatballs in the North End

After spending more than 20yrs running one of C'bridge's more popular neighborhood restos NOT named Characters Bar & Grill, the native Neopolitan behind Huron Ave's Trattoria Pulcinella is finally fulfilling his off-the-boat dream of owning an Italian joint in the North End with Pulcinella Mozzarella Bar e Ristorante, opening today.

After an afternoon of whistling at co-eds from your street-side lawn chair, you're gonna want to

Have A Seat: Because they won't let you bring in your lawn chair as it's a "fire hazard" and "wait, were you the jagoff whistling at me when I was crossing the street?", you'll have to pony up to this contemporary 34-seater's nine dark wood tables lit by colorful mod bubble lamps, or a four-stool counter set underneath blown-glass pendants and surrounded by bright paintings of vintage Vespas & Fiats

Cut The Cheese: Once you stop passing gas (and taking things so literally), choose from one of three mozz-es (light, smoked, or creamy) before carefully adding your "accompaniments" that can include meats (slow-roasted pork loin, dry-cured beef, smoked prosciutto) and/ or veggies like glazed onions, mixed olives, and oven-roasted exotic mushrooms

Try The Buffalo Steak: No, really. It's delicious, marinated in garlic & rosemary, and can be paired with cheese-stuffed meatballs w/ tube pasta or a toasted Italian couscous w/ mussels, clams & shrimp. Also awesome: truffle-marsala-dipped veal chop and pomegranate-sauced pork tenderloin, or what you'll have when that hostess realizes you were the jagoff whistling at her when she was crossing the street.