A little goat from the Fatty 'Cue guys in the West Village

Goats' irrepressible surliness -- the can-eating, the crotch-butting, the insolent bleating -- makes it obvious that they have little fear of becoming food. Haha, you little bastards: Cabrito.

Meaning "little goat" in Spanish, Cabrito serves up billy-centric Mexican prepared by a former Fatty Crab chef, who's predilection towards ill-tempered creatures will hopefully culminate in a cafe called The Steamed Badger. Grub actually includes all manner of less ornery beasties, e.g., carnitas uruapan (simmered pork confit w/ salsa verde), and chorizo cemita (Pueblan sandwich with papalo, chipotle salsa, refried beans, and avocado), but the main attraction's the eponymous cabrito: banana leaf-wrapped, slow roasted goat slathered w/ tequila salsa borracha -- or "drunken salsa", preferred condiment of China's wobbliest martial arts masters. As for drinks, Cabrito's heavy on the tequilas (Sienbra Azul, Casa Nobles) and mezcals like Del Maguey Villages Mezcals and Los Danzantes, whose bite will have you screaming "Quien es el Jefe!?"

Walk through the kitchen, and you'll find a 16-seat concrete garden -- which was covered in grass, until your dinner got loose on it.