Leonardo da Vinci famously said simplicity is the ultimate sophistication, though clearly just as an elaborate ruse to throw people off the trail of his crazy-complex, harder-than-Contra codes. Nonetheless, his advice was taken to heart by the fellow Italian behind Trattoria Ultimo, a streamlined storefront hideaway outfitted with a few oversize mirrors, a handful of communal tables snagged from an old slaughterhouse, and a chalkboard touting the daily-changing market menu. The owner (who also just opened Alimentari in the West Loop), plans to run a tight ship with a dozen or so dishes all priced at $12 or under, with offerings like garlicky polpetta w/ onion jam-smeared crostini, and burrata w/ grilled squash and capers, which's potentially what the squash is being grilled about in the first place. Obviously there'll also be pasta, like a rotating selection of risottos (arugula/ taleggio; shrimp/ broccoli/ saffron), or you can get meaty with a plate of 2.5hr-braised short ribs, of which Spud Webb has had quite enough, thank you. For dessert, nab a bowl of homemade basil-lemon sorbet, and for booze line up your finest sixer of Zima as they're BYOB, which, counter to Leo's line of thinking, will make you both unsophisticated and terribly simple.