Pasteur

The Vietnamese hub is back in its original digs after a five-year absence, with rattan chairs and Oriental greenery interspersed with white tablecloths and jet-black banquettes, and a kitchen co-captained by the original chef (who cooks up steaming bowls of pho and garlic-sauced deep-fried snapper) and a seasoned Francophile, who produces Gallic touches like duck breast w/ bacon, peas, and pearl onions, which she had to have to rip into Will Ferrell like that.