Food & Drink

The more things change, the more they stay the Ssahm

Old traditions don't necessarily suffer when served up in modern ways -- just because Joel Osteen's pulpit's a basketball arena doesn't mean he's abandoned the time-honored preacherly duties of delivering the word, and having way too hot a wife for any preacher. Putting a family tradition on wheels & tortillas: Ssahm's Korean BBQ.

Ssahm's a roving exotic-taco collaboration between the owner of Joey's Italian Villa in Carrollton and a man whose parents run a Korean BBQ resto in LA, and whose grandparents actually had one in a land even more authentic than Cali or South-of-Lewisville: Korea, where they used the exact same marinades that Ssahm's is slinging now. Classic fillings include kalbi (Angus chuck short rib), daeji (spicy pork), ddak (spicy chicken), and dubu -- grilled organic tofu, like that enjoyed by the formerly drugged-out, now healthy-living band The Dubu Brothers. As for delivery mechanisms, go with corn tortilla tacos (w/ sesame soy vinaigrette salad, caramelized kimchee, cilantro, onion, and salsa), a flour quesadilla (w/ jack & cheddar and caramelized kimchee), or a burrito (all the above ingredients); on the side, grab cheese & onion-covered kimchee fries smothered in spicy Mayo -- also what dudes who dig bears consider the Grizzly OJ.

To wash things down, they're stocking two Korean beverages: Shike, which is sweet and malty, and the grape soda-ish BonBon -- delicious, though "I'll have a BonBon!" are words no one who's reached the summit of manhood wants to deliver.