Food & Drink

French cooking, American feasting

JoJo chef/owner Laurent Poupart's resume isn't too shabby. He worked at a three-Michelin Strasbourg restaurant at age 14, then studied at that city's Culinary Institute before running prestigious restos in NYC & San Antonio, and private-cheffing for a motley crew including Cindy Crawford, Gerald Ford, and Joel Silver, who's currently producing Lethal Weapon V, a sure sign that he's getting too old for this s***

The latest addition to Poupart's curriculum vitae is a sleek, pie-loving brasserie where wine lines the walls and two L-shaped bars duel: a wood-topped brick station for booze, with windows for sidewalk serving; and a marble-top that spies on the open kitchen. Said kitchen's wood-firing French-style pizzas from The Alsatian (creme fraiche, bacon, onion, mozz, white cheddar & provolone) to a smoked salmon with more white cheddar & provolone, but also arugula, and capers so subtle no one will ever know. Dinner belt-busters count Alaskan king salmon a la plancha and Duo of Lamb (leg & chop) served with Tomatoes Provençal and green beans, which happens when Rowan Atkinson forgets his Dramamine

Desserts like almond & cherry nougat glace bergamot come courtesy of the old Craft pastry chef, while drinking's fueled by brews including Shock Top & Palm, and a wine list that boasts rarities from a '97 Halo to an '82 Rothschild that, being wine, will never get too old for this s***.