To make room for Ser, the former Nana space way up in the Anatole underwent more changes than Bowie said he went through, even though he was only 23: tablecloths have gone the way of the dodo, while in are a 14-seat chef's table, sleek high-back leather chairs, iPad wine menus, a glass-encased wine room, and a wood-lined bar backed by stone, because what else is Ron Wood doing these days. Besides the epic skyline view, why you need to be there: Starters: Grab ahi tartare or jalapeno-heated hamachi crudo from the raw bar, plus cheese & charcuterie plates (speck from Iowa, goat feta from Waco, Dublin karst from... Dublin... TX), and big apps like a tempura-fried half Maine lobster. Steaks & Not Steaks: House-aged Wagyu includes the ultra-rare spinalis cut (a tasty ribeye cap). Beef-haters can dig on line-caught salmon, day boat sea scallops with celery root puree & black truffle vinaigrette, or a wood-roasted, Peruvian-pepper-sauced Double B chicken breast, plenty big, because DDs would just hurt your back. Cocktails: Michael Martensen (in case you missed it, here's what he's doing at Cedars Social these days) crafted the libations, from classic Gimlets, to the Bull Le Jeune (maple, bacon fat-washed Jim Beam, Angosturas), to a number featuring Woodford Reserve, five-spice syrup, and pressed mint leaves over crushed ice, called the Spirit of Ecstasy -- a reference you'll recognize if, like the under-appreciated Ron Wood, you know your Rolls.