Indian restaurants in Dallas are generally passable, in that you'll want to drive right past them, on your way to a steakhouse. Changing all that by bringing a tradition of legit Indian food to town, the folks behind Mughlai, opening Saturday.
From a family accustomed to entertaining Indian and Bangladeshi heads of state at one of their NJ restos, Mughlai’s doing up Northern Indian cuisine in 150-seat modern (granite floors, contemporary seating)-slash-traditional (Indian drapery, a massive hookah-lounge-looking lamp) digs; all four of its chefs’ve been imported directly from India, and the beef-free menu was crafted to be “non-threatening” to guests, because nothing’s more terrifying to Texans than the longhorns they lovingly name their athletic teams after. Apps run from veg pakoras (fried veggies in a seasoned chickpea batter), to galoti kebab (pan-fried lamb patties with roasted chickpea flour and fresh ground spices), to sesame-covered, spice-marinated shrimp called Jingha Til Tinka, not to be confused with Jenga ‘Till Ya Tinkle, now available at Spencer’s. The Indian-ing keeps coming with mains like gosht vindaloo (vinegar-marinated lamb cubes cooked with diced potatoes in a spicy curry sauce), machli hara masala (salmon in a cilantro, mint, and green chili masala), and lamb chop adraki, which’s flavored with ginger essence -- also a popular magazine that only published when Dennis Rodman dyed his hair red.
Naturally, they’ve got an array of naans and parathas, as well as specialty bevvies like mango lassi (yogurt and fruit pulp) and nimbu pani (mint flavored lemonade), and you can order everything on the menu with various levels of heat, a basketball team that doesn't consider basketballs passable.