Not since the days of the Run-n-Shoot has Houston produced something this good and this fast: Becks Prime, which pending the city's OK opens next week at Preston & Forest. Brought to Dallas by a lawyer, an accountant, and a pair of Brinker alums, this 28yr Houston staple mesquite-sears its meats to order -- including a rib eye that actually weighs more than Ernest Givins -- but still manages to get its chow out quickly, and even boasts a drive-thru. Beyond that rib eye (also avail in a loaded sandwich), you'll find offerings like a 14oz NY strip, a trio of dogs made just for Becks by Boar's Head, a roster of 1/2lb Angus chuck burgers (don't pretend like you're not adding chili), an ahi sandwich with Asian spread, the Kitchen Sink (bun-less chuck topped w/ sauteed onion, bacon, Swiss, guac...), and the BP BLT, a fat sammy that, combined with too much coffee, will require a massive cleanup of whatever Gulf station you stop in later. Wait, are there Gulf stations anymore? Anyway, they've got beer & wine (no drive-thru for those), as well as everything from homemade lemonade to malts and shakes, or what Andre Ware got when he discovered pro DBs were really good, and really fast.