A big juicy chicken party

Taking a Journey from the Bay Area to the Metroplex: Wing Fiesta, who've just opened a red corrugated aluminum, LED-lit 40-seater in Plano. They've brought 14 flavors with them, from the oxymoronic "mild spicy", to lemon pepper, to habanero, to garlic Parmesan, which like Gene will always surprise you, even when you know you're ordering garlic Parmesan. They're doing gloriously perverse things to fries, too, in styles like Tony's (chili, bacon, cheddar, sour cream), and the creamy-garlic-sauced Gilroy -- whether they intended to reference Bourne screenwriter Tony Gilroy is a mystery, but one thing's for sure: as fat as these'll make you, you will not be f***ing Matt Damon. Because this is Texas, there's also cow on the menu, with ribs cooked overnight, then drenched in one of a quartet of flavors, all of which you'll embrace with Open Arms Mouth.