Dancing its way into your belly

Hoping to open today from a brother & sister team you'll cherish even more than that siblings show ABC cancelled despite your many heartfelt letters: Casa Cha Cha Rough Tex Mex. Following up their eight-year run with Dos Rios, siblings Ruben and Rose Gonzalez are back with a rustic-modern 290-seater, complete with a mammoth, granite-over-corrugated-steel bar, a lit wooden arch over a low community table scripted with the Spanish for "Full Stomach -- Happy Heart" (Eric Taylor, meet Tractor Traylor), and a back patio that connects to Renegade Cigars' outdoor area, where patrons can enjoy the best of both establishments.

In what they say's a nod to old-fashioned Tex-Mex, everything's prepared spicy & chunky, as mains start with ground brisket tacos and all manner of enchiladas (from beef to shrimp, crabmeat, and crawfish), then move on to chili-rubbed rib eyes & salmon, and the stars of the show, a trio of lightly breaded, grilled-ground-brisket chicken-fried steaks: the traditional ranch-style, chili-and-cheese Texas, and Mexican with verde or ranchero sauce, so good it forced Chevy to develop El Camino sauce.

Show your amphibious side by ordering a plate of deep-fried farm-raised catfish, fried shrimp & frog legs, or go lightly with anytime breakfast tacos & migas, or apps from hand-battered stuffed 'penos to "Drunk Bean Soup", leading to the conclusion that Moneyball wasn't a purely rational decision.

Follow the lead of those beans with micheladas, housemade sangria, and from-scratch margaritas labeled Macho or Sinorita depending on whether they're spiked with Cointreau or Grand Marnier, which market research told them males and females preferred respectively -- though if market researchers ever consulted you, your Sundays'd still be spent bounding through Sally Fields of joy.