A new concept from an old hand

It's never too late to try something new, which is exactly what Jordan Knight said before hitting the road again at the precocious age of 41. Trying something new after decades spent hanging tough with steakhouses, the man behind Four Sisters Café, opening Tuesday

The latest project from Dale Wamstad of Del Frisco's and III Forks fame, this double-level airy palace of what they're calling "True American" fare features a wraparound mezzanine, ornate brass chandeliers, a rectangular granite bar, and the joint's namesake: a painting by San Marcos's Jill Pankey that Wamstad is convinced depicts him in drag alongside Snipes! Swayze! Leguizamo! London! four old-school female restaurant critics. The menu's still "very early", but expect apps to run from lobster kabobs, to French-fried frog legs, to Texas Caviar, to grilled Quail's Nest -- as opposed to Quayle's Nest, where Dan chews up a potatoe and drops it into Ben's mouth. Entrees'll include fish dishes (Shrimp Victoria, Red Fish de Dama), beef (tenderloin, medallions, brisket, sausage), and fowl like roasted chicken and crispy duck breast, which you might remember from Goldberg the Goalie's Bar Mitzvah. Dinner wasn't bad either

Cocktails and beer are still TBD, but they will carry a carefully chosen selection of wines ranging from the Loire Valley's Lapostolle Sancerre to the Chilean Pinot Noir Cono Sur Vision, after which yours might become double, causing you to fail the only vision test that matters: N K O T B.