The elder steaksman gets casual in Uptown

Sometimes it's easier to go through changes away from home, like when you head to college and discover politics, or the Broncos head to Kansas City and un-discover "passing". Embrace the changes a certain steakhouse made in NYC, at Del Frisco's Grille, soft-opening Saturday in Uptown.

Based on a concept first unleashed on Rock Center, the DFG reinvents the bar & grill in ways "grill and bar" proprietors never imagined, taking over a McKinney Plaza space where twin patios wrap around McK & Hall and two bars provide a convenient excuse for not answering your phone. The goods:

Starters, Sides, Sammies: White Clam Flatbread? Yes. Cheesesteak Eggrolls? Why wouldn't they have those? You can also go for grits in Cajun lobster gravy, or "Two-Fisted" burgers like a fat lamb number and the double-patty Green Chili Cheese, which won't save the planet, but will turn you into one.

Mains: These run from the reason Del Frisco's is on the map, to the greatest steak-influenced prawn ever (chicken-fried shrimp), to Bordelaise-sauced veal meatloaf, to Bay of Fundy salmon, Fundy Salman being Rushdie's ultra-conservative, awkwardly nicknamed alter-ego.

Libations: Your first instinct will be the "Uptown Hottie" (Treaty Oak Rum, mango puree, squeeze of lime, jalapeno slices), but if you don't want to rub in how good-looking you are, try the Tabasco/St Germain/Hendrick's "Kilt Lifter". They also boast 500+ wines, and twin taps dispensing a pair of chilled shots: the tequila & rum "H.O.T.D.", and the liqueured-up "Honey Badger", which will cause you to change right in front of everyone, because you don't give a damn!