Food & Drink

Grilling purists rejoice!

The charcoal vs. gas debate has been raging for decades, which, coincidentally, is how long it takes to grill a steak for those on Team Charcoal. At least kick back in a nice space and let a chef do the dirty work for you, at Charcoal Restaurant.

A roomy Golden Triangle briquette temple, Charcoal plates "contemporary European cuisine" under South American chandeliers in a modern dining room, with most everything prepped on their open kitchen's CO-made Bincho grills, which use a special charcoal that's "virtually smokeless" and is being dubbed "the Nicorette of grilling" even as you read this. Seafood starters are highlighted by New Caledonia head-on prawns with sauteed Swiss chard, Akvavit-brushed gravlax, and PEI mussels with Hatch red chile/ white wine, while meatier stuff includes a charcuterie board with speck alto adige and chicken liver mousse, as well as an Osso Buco-style oxtail, also the name of a DuckTales spin-off where young animals get into wacky, plow-related misadventures.

Bincho'd mains run from a Berkshire pork loin (w/ asparagus salad/ candied pecan/ Parm-reggiano/ cherry gastrique), to a Shetland Island salmon tournedo (w/ fried green tomatoes, pistachio pistou, and licorice greens), to a CO lamb served two ways, as a sausage and sirloin -- also how you have to address a knight's sausage.

Their well-stocked wine list features selections from CA/ France/ Spain, plus there's a complement of single-malt scotches including a Glenkinchie 12yr, an Oban 14, and a beautiful Dalwhinnie 15 -- so by the time you're done grilling your own steak, a beautiful Dalwhinnie 35.