Food from somewhere even colder

You don't hear people talking about Scandinavian food a lot -- or you do, but it's the Swedish Chef, so you don't understand people talking about Scandinavian food a lot. Hoping to make a name for the region's cuisine in Mile High: Trillium

Larimer Street's brick-walled 96-seater plates eats "rooted in the Scandinavian and American culinary traditions" under exposed beams and 14ft pressed tin ceilings, features that were all present when the space housed a "wheel and deal" pawn shop, which probably went under due to the relatively low demand for wheels. Like a seal at dinnertime (or, actually, Seal at dinnertime), Scandinavia eats a lot of fish, and the menu follows suit with apps including seared Maine scallops paired with crispy Long Farm pork/ root vegetable slaw/ paddlefish beurre blanc, and "Smorgasbord" selections like aquavit-cured salmon, lemon & dill pickled shrimp, and lobster terrine. Seafaring mains run from pan-roasted steelhead trout (with mussel dill broth) to arctic char plated with walnut rutabaga puree/ wilted spinach; there's also meatier fare like a seared duck breast, and a grilled Long Farm pork chop with Havarti polenta, seared greens, and applesauce with cardamom, which would actually totally flatter her

They'll also have six taps going, with seasonals like Bristol Brewing's Winter Warlock, and all-year locals like Great Divide's Hoss and Denver Pale Ale, which Scandinavians will actually consider quite tan, but it's ok, because you won't be able to understand them.